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Day Six on the Camino Primitivo ~ Berducedo to Castro, 25.6 Kilometers (15.9 Miles)
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On day six of my Camino Primitivo, it was all about pushing through the adversity of physical challenges. In my prior days' writings, I had alluded to my chest constriction, sore throat and sinus drainage issues. Well today, I was just physically exhausted most of the day, with my physical symptoms now culminating in full blown laryngitis and perhaps bronchitis as well.
For some reason, I thought that after completing the Hospitales Route on day five, most of the challenges of the Original Way would be over. Not so! Upon completion of my day six, I realized that this was truly a rugged, lonely and amazingly beautiful Camino.
"Oh Lord, you give us everything at the price of fatigue! " ~ Leonardo Da Vinci
As I listened to my voice journaling from day six of my Camino Primitivo, I repeatedly heard the frustration and exhaustion in my voice. Plus, I could hardly speak. My post-nasal drip, as I had feared, once again turned into laryngitis. While my throat wasn't as sore in this stage, my coughing became my new companion. This was especially true after a long night of sinus drainage, causing the hacking that kept me from a good night's rest.
While I tried to contemplate on the meaning of my missing voice and the 5th Chakra energy issues, throughout my entire day six on the Camino Primitivo, I never did come up with an answer.
Perhaps the sheer energy requirement of this and prior days had merely taken its toll. Yes, I was tired - tired of hills, tired of my feet hurting by midday, tired of the physical pounding on my body, tired of coughing, tired of being sick almost since the day I set foot in Spain.
And still, I pushed on. This is my tale of day six on the Camino Primitivo.
Day Six, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Despite my illness, we managed to complete the 25 kilometers. The "family" plans were to meet up in Castro, but I didn't know if I had that distance in me. I would take the day as it came.
The first 4.3 km from Berducedo to La Mesa is a 1.3 kilometer walk uphill followed by about a three kilometer downhill. After La Mesa, the fun ends. The rest of our day six on the Camino Primitivo is nothing but long, long hill climbs and punctuated with very steep downhills.
The downhill from Buspol to the Embalse de Salime reservoir is torture on the legs and feet, but at least it is in lovely forest paths that are not paved!
As you can see from the elevation profile, the loss of elevation from the high point after La Mesa, in Buspol, to the reservoir is more than 800 meters (2600 feet) over about 7.0 kilometers! If you have never done this type of elevation loss in your life, let me tell you how brutal it is!
Then, of course, from the reservoir, is the inevitable climb to Grandes de Salime and onward to Castro, a gain of about 440 meters (1500 feet). Come mentally and physically prepared for this day, and plan lots of rest breaks!
The Journey ~ Day Six on the Camino Primitivo
From the Bar Casa Marques in Berducedo along the AS-34, take the small side lane to the right, down the hill and towards the Albergue Camino Primitivo,
Albergue Camino Primitivo on the RightThe yellow albergue is unmissable. About 50 meters after the albergue, the Camino veers to the left onto another side road. A few steps later, pass the Casa Uria Berducedo on the left. A few more steps onward, pick up the well-marked road to the right, shown in the photo below, leading to the historic, 14th century Iglesia de Santa María de Berducedo.
There is a large red sign post to the right, at this intersection, not pictured, letting you know that Grandas de Salime is 19.2 kilometers away. You will be seeing these signs, counting down the mileage, going forward, see photos farther below. These red signs are unique from Berducedo to Grandas.
Toward the Historic Church in BerducedoAs you walk toward the church, there is a covered picnic table on the left, with a water fountain. You can see the small pavilion in the photo above, and in the next photo,(right side of the photo). Perfect place for a fill-up and a break, if the timing is right for you.
Arrive at the church, after less than 100 meters walking on the lane.
After passing the church, you will begin a small, about 100 meters in altitude climb up and out of Berducedo.
About 40 meters after the church, stay to the right at a Y-intersection, then a left at the next, below, where you can see the climb that begins in the town itself.
Begin Small Climb out of BerducedoAbout 300 meters after the turn up the hill and after the road takes a large bend to the left, the pavement becomes a country lane. You will now be on lanes for about a kilometer and a half. Here is Rich, below, near the top of the small climb.
Rich Climbing Out of Berducedo on LaneAs you walk on the ancient roadway, climbing out of Berducedo, don't forget to look back at the view, see the photo below. It is gorgeous! In fact, our first time here we timed it perfectly for sunrise over the town. The photo of Rich and I in our introduction to the Primitivo, was taken at almost this precise spot, at sunrise, all those years ago. It continues to be one of my favorite photos of us on the Primitivo.
Look-Back View of BerducedoJust before the top of this first climb, you will come to a crossroads, after about 1.3 kilometers into the day and pick up another dirt lane to the left. A few meters after the crossroads, come to the top, and skirt along a forest on a downhill grade towards the next town of La Mesa (or, variably, A Mesa in Gallego), below. If you are extending your day’s walk from Berducedo, this is an enjoyable, easy walk!
Forest Path Towards La MesaRich and I soon caught up with James, our British compadre. They ambled on ahead, on long legs, while I relished in the music of the forest path in solitude. I believe James was purposefully walking slowly to find company on the walk! (He is about six foot, five inches tall, 198 centimeters, with a gigantic stride!)
After about 900 meters from the high point, the Way rejoins our old friend, the pavement, by turning left onto an unnamed road shown below and walks us two more kilometers downhill towards La Mesa.
Left Turn Onto Pavement at One of the Unique SignsEven though you are walking on pavement for two full kilometers, it feels nice, as the amazing views of the countryside continue, below, and there is almost no traffic along this quiet highway. However, you see those windmills on the hill above in the distance? They are your destination after La Mesa! Seriously!
Pavement Walking Toward La MesaAs we walked into La Mesa, after about 4.5 kilometers total, the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena loomed above the landscape on a bit of a hill. The old stone church has benches under a tree to take a moment for rest and reflection. I poked around the place, but it was shut tight to onlookers. Despite my physical state, I again breathed a prayer of gratitude.
A few steps from the church is the Albergue Miguelín, Bar and Restaurant. This is the only place to stay in La Mesa now, after the old municipal albergue across the street closed for good.
Albergue Miguelín in La Mesa, Day Six, Camino PrimitivoThe Albergue Miguelín is a real pilgrim’s haven. We have stayed here and they run a tight ship, with a full staff serving pilgrim’s at the bar and restaurant. It is no wonder it is a bustling place. We were not fortunate enough to snag one of their private rooms, but the 28-bed dormitory was designed nice enough. They even have a pool as you can see in the photo to the right. But who carries bathing suits? If you arrive here without a reservation and it is full, your next place of accommodation is not until Vistalegre, almost 11 kilometers away; or a 4.5 km walk-back to Berducedo.
From the albergue in La Mesa, the Original Way turns to the right and follows the main road. Here the countryside opens wide, and we immediately began climbing up towards the ridge along the pavement and towards the windmills. We were lucky enough to have a gorgeous sunrise on our recent time through here! The white in the photo is a fog bank, created from a temperature inversion low in the valley!
Being the first steep climb of the day and with my reduced energy level (my first time through when this story was written), this climb seemed like water torture to me. It is a climb of 180 meters (590 feet) over the next 1.5 kilometers. (In good health, as I look back now, it’s really not all that bad. Or perhaps it was the amazing sunrise and views, combined with many photo breaks that made it so much more enjoyable!)
I looked up to the windmills on the ridge on my left and the two guys walking ahead. Hopefully, this was as far as this hill went! I put my head down, and synchronized my steps with my breath. It works in yoga, maybe it would work with walking! I plodded on, one foot in front of the other, to a rhythm that worked for me. And sure enough, the road goes not quite all the way up to the windmills, but we were close, below.
After the road takes a huge bend to the left, to go around and not to the windmills, we reached the top of this climb, after 5.9 kilometers into the day. And the views on the other side, on the descent were equally phenomenal, below. And a temperature inversion was present in the reservoir valley ahead as well. From this altitude top, send energy to your knees and legs, as you have just begun the lengthy descent for the day to the Embalse de Salime, the Salime Reservoir, over the next 8.4 kilometers! Welcome to the Primitivo!
Descent From the Top, Day Five, Camino PrimitivoContinue down the hill from the top for about 700 meters more, and you will see a turn to the right and onto a path, not the immediate right onto the sloppy wet lane with the closed gate, pictured below. The unique red signs at this junction continued to let us know of our progress to Grandas de Salime, only 12.5 kilometers away and that we had come 6.8 kilometers from Berducedo.
12.5 Km to Grandas de Salime, Berducedo 6.8 KmAfter joining the path down the hill and after walking only about 100 meters more you will encounter the small historic town of Buspol. Not much is left of this town except this fabulous pilgrim’s chapel, the Capilla de Santa Marina de Buspol, pictured below. As you can see this is a very special place with dramatic views. After spending a moment or two in silence and gratitude at the chapel, my mood turned from "what the 'bleep' am I doing?" to one of euphoria.
This is the most enchanting place, high among the clouds! If you can spend a moment or ten here to pause and reflect, you will not go away empty hearted!
The Way onward, on this monumental stone pathway from the chapel was no less inviting, pictured left. It is unparalleled in its uniqueness and its beauty! Plus we were still catching the final moments of the sunrise.
With the final colors of sunrise and the fog bank below us, we caught our breaths at the crazy wonderful world we live in!
Continuing along the path on the steep descent, you will walk through several gates. Be sure to close them behind you after walking through them.
As we walked onward, we knew we would eventually be joining the fog bank. To see it as we approached was quite the sight, below, and a bit eerie, to be honest!
Descending Into the Fog BankBelow the fog, the Embalse de Salime is nestled in the valley far below, but you would never know it if you were walking on a day like we were.
This is the view we saw as we descended lower, below, and should have been seeing the reservoir.
The Reservoir Below in the Fog BankFor comparison, for those who will be walking in clear weather, this is how the approximate same view would appear, below right. It is breathtaking, for sure. You can see by how far the reservoir is below you, what a grand descent your Way ahead is going to be!
After about 7.7 kilometers from Berducedo and about 900 meters from the chapel in Buspol, come to a T-intersection, shown below and turn left. For the next 2.5 kilometers, the descent will be on steep switchbacks. The red sign says 11.5 kilometers to Grandas de Salime, with 7.8 kilometers under our belts. The terrain and the steepness felt a lot to me like hiking in Colorado, even though the vegetation is not the same.
The Steep Descent Towards the ReservoirWe rounded a corner with high rock bands to our right, and boom, we were in the fog! However, we were able to see sufficiently to follow the waymarks.
The Fog Awaits AheadAfter about 9.13 kilometers total come to a T-intersection with a waymark, indicating a left turn at a strong switchback, not pictured.
When you come to the red signs with Grandas de Salime 8.3 kilometers away, below, and after 11 kilometers from Berducedo, stay to the right. You will finally be entering an area with some trees!
Grandas de Salime 8.3 Km, Berducedo 11 Km at the Red MarkerYou will finally be entering an area with some trees! It is at this sign, when the trail levels off a bit, with some little ups and downs for the next 1.5 kilometers or so.
While the remaining kilometers to Grandas were few, the way ahead was not easy. But for now, the flat lane, below right, was a wonderful relief from the steep pounding. It was a lovely place and an easy walk for the time being.
I can't imagine if it would have rained for our steep descent. It would have been a very difficult and slippery descent. Fortunately, I have never walked this section in the rain.
The Lane Briefly Levels OutFor the effort, once again you are rewarded with sweeping views that defy description, if it is a clear day! In the photo below, on such a clear day, do you see the road high above the reservoir on the other side? While we didn't know it when we were first here, that is the Camino, after dropping to the dam, it climbs back up on the other side. If I knew then what I know now, I would have been very, very discouraged.
High View of the Reservoir on a Clear DayEven on our foggy day, below, we could see across to the other shore. I was encouraged by the sight of what I thought was the Hotel Las Grandas, the yellow building that you can just make out through the fog. And indeed it turned out to be so!
A High Walk Above the ReservoirAfter 12.3 kilometers from Berducedo and 7.0 to Grandas de Salime, the Original Way comes to this intersection, below, and leaves the lane on a strong turn to the left.
Leave Lane for Path to the LeftThe remainder of the path to the reservoir switchbacks and drops steeply, below, and brings you back onto the AS-14 eventually, after about 13.5 kilometers from Beducedo.
Steep Final Switchbacks Toward the AS-14Pictured below is the place where the trail meets the AS-14. From this junction to the dam is almost 800 meters more.
At the Junction with AS-14 ~ Grandas de Salime, 6.6 Km AwayOn the way to the dam, pass by a cave-like structure on your right, with a sign saying, “Mirador Sobre El Salto de Salime,” a Viewpoint Over the Salime Dam. It will only take a minute to walk through the tunnel and come out on the other end with a viewing platform and the best view of the dam, pictured next, below.
By the time you arrive at the dam, below, the day's total is about 14.2 kilometers. While I didn't attend to our speed as I walked on day six, as I write this, and look back, even for being not up to my usual, I didn't do too badly.
Spend a few moments to peer over the edge of the dam, on each side of the road and marvel at this architectural achievement. There is an overlook in the middle of the dam to aid your viewing.
Crossing to the Other Side on the AS-14The one kilometer from the dam to the hotel in the next town of Vistalegre, pictured below, seemed quite long as we climbed up the hill but we were there a short 15 minutes later. We had reached approximately 15.2 kilometers for the day at our arrival to the hotel.
Climbing on the AS-14 After the DamIt is recommended that one stops for café con leche at the Hotel Las Grandas, the building in yellow below right. You can see why. We stopped and had coffee and lunch on the terrace with a wonderful view of the reservoir. It was 11:00 and a long, long way from the 7:00 a.m. café con leche and tostada! The hotel has individual rooms, and has an albergue, if you desire to end your day here!
I was learning that every day between 10-11:00 a.m., with about 10-15 kilometers under my belt, I would become extremely tired and hungry. The coffee and toast just didn't serve me enough energy on these long mornings.
The Hotel Las GrandasI was sooooo grateful for the long meal break, and took off my boots to air out my pounded, burning feet. I had made a habit at every break to air out my feet. It definitely helped.
I got absolutely NO blisters on my day six on the Camino Primitivo, nor on any day! (See my packing list article for how I managed my feet, if you are interested).
We ran into many Camino family members close to or in the Hotel Las Grandas. Some stopped for a break, some waved as they kept going. The Three Amigos grabbed their backpacks when they saw us coming and hurried on to be first! I couldn't help smiling. (See Day Four for the story).
Looking ahead to the second half of day six on the Camino Primitivo, I knew that we had a long climb ahead, up and out of the valley to Grandas de Salime.
The Camino, after the hotel, is wretched, uphill and almost entirely on the AS-14. I must say, the uphill is easier on the body, but definitely harder on the lungs. My throat was hurting, but I kept going.
Trudging up this hill on pavement was boring and another tortuous leg for me. I synced my step and breath once again and trudged on. Rich and James were once again ahead of me, chatting away, while I felt like a martyr, "somewhere" behind them.
Fortunately, the sun came out and cleared away any possibility of rain, so the afternoon was at least pleasant, weather-wise.
Here is a photo below, of a stretch of the roadway, with only 3 km left to go to Grandas. We got great views as we climbed, looking at the opposite angle to the reservoir.
During this long stretch of 3.2 kilometers, on the AS-14 from the hotel, there are the occasional foot paths by the highway, but only where there is sufficient room on the shoulder. There are times when there is no choice but to walk on the roadway. Fortunately, for us, there was not a lot of traffic.
Farther along the AS-14, there is a huge hairpin turn (see the map above) and an "Area de Descanso" or rest stop with picnic tables. This would be a lovely place to stop for a break as well, if you didn't want to stop at the hotel.
Immediately after the hairpin turn, the Camino leaves the roadway to climb steeply on a trail up and to the left. The Spaniards call this place, the Desvio por Senda (meaning detour on a track). I saw this, and was completely discouraged. The map clearly shows the AS-14 goes directly into Grandas.
Clearly, we could have stayed on the road and cut out this grueling mini-climb above the roadway. In fact, I am sure some did. But, we chose to keep to the Camino, and take the "track." I am sure it is much safer than the roadway too. It was a nice track and through another forest.
After about 1.2 kilometers, the parallel trail joins a paved path and lets you back out onto the AS-14, here at this juncture, pictured below, in the town of Grandas de Salime, just shy of 20 kilometers for the day. An immediate right turn onto the Av. Ferreiro takes you to the center of town.
Entering Grandas de SalimeIf you were to stay straight on AS-14, the private Albergue Porta de Grandas is a few meters ahead.
We passed by the ethnic museum in town that is recommended to see, but we chose not to go. I had more important things on my mind.
After searching through town for more ibuprofen to treat my throat and sore muscles, we stopped at the Café Bar Centro, a quaint place by the church, shown below. Unfortunately, post-pandemic, this place has permanently closed. But there are other cafes in the center of town that you will pass by.
The route still goes through this plaza, pictured below, on the southside of the church.
Café Bar Centro in Grandas de SalimeWhile sipping our café we decided to go on to Castro, another 5 kilometers. It was about 1:30 in the afternoon, and still early in the day. I guess the coffee and food revived me enough.
I reasoned that day seven's hill climb to Venta del Acebo would be shorter, and the day itself would be shorter, at a little over 22 kilometers, so why not? I also was jonesing to see the ancient Celtic site of Castro de Chao Samartín, so the decision was final.
This turned out to be the best decision, as you will see, the climb into A Fonsagrada at the end of the next day, day seven, turned out to be unexpectedly brutal.
If you have had enough for the day, there are many services in Grandas. There is the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de El Salvador de Grandas de Salime. There is the Hostal Bar Occidente, the La Barra Hotel and the private Albergue Casa Sanchez in the center of town. Finally on the south side is the Pensión and Restaurante A Reigada and the Albergue Porta de Grandas just as you enter town.
We took off for Castro on day six of our Camino Primitivo, through a back street from the church called the Calle Carmen and walked by the Capilla del Carmen in 250 meters, shown below. A woman was praying here before a window that peered into the chapel and its altar.
I was grateful for the nice, clear weather on day six, Camino Primitivo and that my ill health was only temporary!
Capilla del Carmen, Grandas de Salime
Calle Carmen in Grandas de SalimeFrom the Calle Carmen, the way turns into an easy path for not quite 1/2 kilometer, but soon joins the AS-28 to walk to the town of La Farrapa for not quite one kilometer back on the pavement.
The Original Way then turns onto a country lane to parallel the AS-28, then into Cereixeira after another kilometer.
From Cereixeira, yet another country lane takes you to Malneira, and this pilgrim's chapel after another 1.25 kilometer. A relatively short stop here was in order, as the end was finally in sight!
Capilla de la Esperanza de MalneiraLess than one kilometer later we were walking up a small hill and into Castro.
All in all, it only took one and a half hours to arrive here from Grandas de Salime, at the wonderfully re-done Albergue Juvenil de Castro. It was just after three in the afternoon.
Albergue Juvenil de Castro
We hurried to do our laundry and shower so we could visit the site of Castro de Chao Samartín. A tour was leaving at 5:00 from the museum, so we had time to join it. Despite the long, hard day, for me it was worth seeing, as I am fascinated by ancient history. This Celtic site hailed back to the 2nd Century, BCE.
Upon returning to the albergue, we joined the family, for a wonderful meal provided by the hostess. The rooms in the albergue were lovely, two bunks to a room (four total rooms, I think). The food was delicious and the setting was the most charming and quaint. I highly recommend this place.
Dinner Gathering at the Albergue Juvenil, left to right, me, Elle, Rich, Igor, Magdalena, Saskia, James & GlyviaThere are several other accommodations in Castro, the Apartamentos Rurales Casa San Julian, the Casa Ferreiro Castro and the Hotel Castro Chao Samartín.
Reflections
Plain and simple, my day six on the Camino Primitivo was mostly a long-suffering day. I felt this way, even despite the amazing views and ambiance of the journey. While I seemed to have plenty of extra energy to see the historic Celtic site in Castro afterwards, most of my day's walking was riddled with fatigue.
I was very tired of feeling subpar, with my sore throat, laryngitis and emerging bronchitis. Had I not been on a Camino, I would have been at home, most likely nursing my symptoms with cups of hot tea. Instead, I was pushing myself on the Camino.
Did it build my character? Yes, most likely. Would I choose to do it again? Yes, most likely. Mostly, when I listened to myself on this day, journaling into my voice recorder, I would repeatedly say, "this also I shall include."
Acceptance of the way it was, virus and all, was the lesson. I failed to be at peace with this several times during the day, but all-in-all I got through it. For today, it was one step at a time.
Salutation
May your own day six on the Camino Primitivo, however long and wherever you are, be filled with acceptance of yourself for exactly where you are. Whether fast or slow, tired or energetic, subpar or full bore, euphoric or melancholy, in full health or ill health, may your Camino be there for you to experience in all its imperfections.
May you always find the Grace to be present to what is on your day six of the Camino Primitivo! Buen Camino!
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