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Day Seven on the Camino Primitivo ~ Castro to A Fonsagrada, 20.2 Kilometers (12.55 Miles)
My day seven on the Camino Primitivo was about continuing to push my limits. ~ seriously pushing buttons and pushing limits.
"One finds limits by pushing them." ~ Hebert Simon, Nobel Prize-winning Social Scientist
If only the above quote were not true, but I was to find out that indeed, it was. There is a time in almost everyone's pilgrimage when you believe that you can go no further, however, there is almost always a way to dig just a little deeper.
Day Seven, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Day seven on the Camino Primitivo essentially follows alongside the AS-12 (while in Asturias) and then the LU-701, when crossing over into Galicia, as the map below shows.
This was supposed to be a short, easy day for me; one that I sorely needed, since I was nursing a cough, laryngitis and bronchitis. Once again, my coughing during the night afforded less than an optimal night's sleep for me.
The remote and Primitive Way is always full of surprises as I was to find out. There is no such thing as a "short" or "easy" day on it!
Here is our interactive Google Map of the GPS tracks for our day. I have placed all the available accommodations, places to eat, fountains and churches along the way for your reference. There are no cafés in Castro, but your accommodation will provide you with food for an extra charge.
A Fonsagrada has everything you could possibly need, so I did not place the numerous places for eating on the map. There are few opportunities in-between, so a stocked pack is very helpful on this day!
The elevation profile for our day says it all. Starting from Castro, it is a strenuous climb of about 470 meters (1541 feet) over about 8.0 kilometers, to the high point, right at the border crossing from Asturias into Galicia. Then the meandering down towards A Fonsagrada is very nice.
However the final stretch into A Fonsagrada is a surprisingly strenuous uphill where you gain 120 meters (400 feet) as you enter town. Part of the frustration is that you can see the city in the distance, long before you arrive! And so it is!
The Journey on Day Seven, Camino Primitivo
The day started out nice enough in Castro. The sky was full of clouds, but no rain, which made for a beautiful sunrise from the Albergue Juvenil de Castro, and the chapel beside it, sitting on top of the hill.
I made preparations to leave with Glyvia, and my husband, Rich. The Primitive Way walks along a paved lane framed by stone walls, through Castro. About 1/4 kilometer from the albergue, pass the Hotel Castro Chao Samartín on your right with a coffee vending machine. A perfect place if you haven’t had your caffeine hit yet or need another one!
Less than 100 meters after the hotel, cross a road and onto a tree-lined lane, below. This wonderful lane, at times forested, is the beginning of the long 7.5 kilometer climb up to the Alto de Acebo as it follows the path of the AS-12 to the west for the next two kilometers on a gradual and pleasant climb.
Glyvia, Walking Compañera for this DayI had made a commitment to myself that I would spend the day walking with Glyvia, since she had been walking alone for several days prior. She enjoyed a good chat, so I intuitively knew she would enjoy the company. And frankly, I would as well.
We continued along this dirt lane and into the hamlet of Padraira, where we strolled by this historic site, pictured below, the Ermita de San Lázaro de Padraira after about 1.6 kilometers into the day. This chapel is the only remaining building of a group that was built for the care of lepers.
The sign on the Ermita states it had been re-built in 1689, however, I read where the leper colony most likely began before 1581, when the first record of it was documented.
Even though I am a registered nurse, it felt eerie to me, paying homage here! I couldn't help having my mind wander to these poor, suffering souls.
Still climbing onward, the Way enters a heavily forested area after the Ermita. Then it opens up just before the lane ends at a crossroads with the AS-12, after about 2.5 kilometers from Castro. The Way crosses over the highway, and joins a parallel path along it on the left side and remains along the AS-12 for the next two kilometers. This well-worn, casual pilgrim’s path is mostly protected by the guardrails along the highway.
Pass through the next town of Arrotón as the road climbs steadily towards the next town of Peñafonte, (variably called Peñafuente on some maps), 1.6 kilometers later.
That is the town of Peñafonte lit up ahead in the distance, our next destination, in the photo below, under the windmills.
I saw the ridge of windmills ahead and remembered yesterday, day six and its climb. I was beginning to tremble in fear at the sight of windmills! Was that the destination?? We had 470 meters (1541 feet) or so of elevation gain from Castro to the Alto do Acebo. Onward!
Windmills Ahead Along the AS-12We arrived at the turn off to the right for Peñafonte after about 4.5 kilometers total into day five on the Camino Primitivo. By this town, you have completed over half of the climb, in distance but not in elevation! The steepest part of the climb is yet to come over the next three kilometers from here to the top.
After the turn-off from the AS-12, about 50 meters later, the Camino turns up the hill to the right and onto a side road. This side road takes a big bend to the left at the town cemetery, see the photo, below, and passes the backside of the town church. As you can see the town is very quaint and inviting.
Left Turn at the Town CemeteryAs you pass the backside of the church, take the first right hand turn, to walk up the hill to the main entrance, photo below. This is the Iglesia de Santa María de Magdalena de Peñafonte, after 4.6 kilometers from Castro, built in 1605.
Immediately opposite the church are these interesting buildings.
Old Buildings in PeñafonteContinuing along the Camino past the church, we walked along this long straight lane, pictured below, and the hydrangeas were gorgeous, inviting us onward.
At the end of this lane at the next intersection is another interesting stone building, below. I would love to know the history of some of these places!
After another 150 meters onward, at the edge of town and after 4.9 kilometers from Castro, the Camino provided a vending machine and a place to rest, below. We briefly stopped here for a quick hit of caffeine and sugar before the final summit push! 2.7 kilometers to go!
I loved how the locals provided these rest areas! They really do help, for me at least. A second café con leche never fails to revive me.
As you can also see in the photo, the pavement ends here at the rest area, and you will now be climbing more steeply on forest lanes.
Last Call for Energy Before the Steep Climb!Initially, the forest lanes are really nice as the Camino climbs up and away from civilization.
The Climb on Forest LanesAfter not even a kilometer of climbing, there are sweeping views toward the valley floor below.
The View to the Valley Below on Your LeftAs the Camino continues its climb, the windmills were everywhere, ahead and on our right.
Windmills Ahead and to Your RightAfter the Camino comes to an area that flattens out, and after about 6.0 kilometers total, this is your signal that you will be coming to another intersection with the AS-12. You will arrive at this intersection after 6.4 kilometers total from Castro. Only a bit more than a kilometer left to go to the top!
Next, you will cross over the AS-12 from the north side to the south side and immediately you will see a gate ahead that you must walk through. Please close the gate after yourself!
We continued the climb toward the windmills on the ridge, just as predicted! Open, sweeping views were everywhere.
We Are Now Higher Than the WindmillsBy the time the windmills appear this close, below, you are only meters from the top.
The Windmills Getting Closer!But first, pass through one more gate, below.
From the gate, it is only 350 meters more for the final steep push to the top. Just around 7.5 kilometers and two hours into our day, we crested the top of the ridge where we communed with the windmills. This is the Alto do Acebo, the almost high point of the day. There is nothing here to mark the top, only your legs noticing that they are no longer climbing! It is by a crossroads, and the waymark in the photo, below.
Passing the Alto do Acebo, Day Seven, Camino PrimitivoThe ultimate top, a full five meters higher (ha ha), is 600 meters past the Alto do Acebo and at 8.1 kilometers total, that coincides with the crossover from Asturias into Galicia. There is no discernible elevation change along this top section.
There used to be a nice slate marker at the boundary, shown below, but recently, I couldn’t find one! I included the photo for nostalgia’s sake. Perhaps one will appear again in the future? The important thing to notice at this crossing into Galicia is that you are more than halfway to Santiago de Compostela.
Having started our day at 0800, it was 1000 when we crossed the border into Galicia, just 2 hours later. Most of the work of the day was done. The other side of the ridge descends just as steeply, as the Camino continues onward, below.
The Camino Descends on the Other SideIt is only 800 meters from the border to the Bar Casa O Acebo, one of only two cafe bars between Castro and A Fonsagrada. You can see the white building of the bar a long way ahead, and also in the middle of the photo, below. It was a welcome sight!
The First Bar on Day Seven of the Camino Primitivo ~ Bar Casa O AceboThe next bar is not for another 5.7 kilometers! We decided to get another café con leche and a second breakfast, when it was available, after the long morning climb. I think I ran down the hill, I was so very ready for the break!
An important lesson on the Camino Primitivo, is that when the bars are open and available, take advantage of it! You never know when another opportunity will come along! In fact, the last time we walked this way, the bar was closed. What a disappointment a closed bar always is!
The track descends to the LU-701 (which was the AS-12 in Asturias) and turns towards the bar. It is still almost 12 kilometers to A Fonsagrada from here. We were still 1.3 kilometers shy of halfway at the Bar Casa O Acebo and 8.8 kilometers into the day. We paused at the waymark along the highway, below, a fancy Galician one!
Waymark at the Alto do Acebo along the HighwayAfter our 30 minute stop at the bar, we climbed up a short hill on a lane, below, that continues for the next 1.2 kilometers. There are more sweeping views of the countryside ahead!
Short Climb After the Bar on a LaneAlong the way we encountered our first, typical Galician waymarks, with the countdown to Santiago, 165 kilometers away. It was encouraging!
Galician Waymarks with Countdown!And after 10 kilometers the lane makes a strong bend to the right just before the trees, seen in the photo below, and joins the LU-701 once again, at a T-intersection. You can see the lovely views along the way.
The High Lane with Views, Day Seven, Camino PrimitivoGlyvia was chipper and chatty for most of the way! It was around this time that I grew weary of the ceaseless chatter we were having. I needed some headspace, and asked if we could just walk together in silence.
We walked on in silence, and I plugged into my Camino playlist. I needed some sort of inspiration, to keep on going. Rich had gone on ahead, to join others. We both did well, just walking together, but in silence. I liked this and was happy that Glyvia respected my desire. She was a true companion.
For the remaining 10 kilometers of day seven on the Camino Primitivo, the way follows near and/or beside the LU-701, like this nice dirt lane shown below. The nice wooden fence gives a feeling of separation from the highway.
The lane follows close to the highway for about 850 meters and takes the pilgrimage traveler into Cabreira, below, after 10.9 kilometers.
The Primitive Way Joins the LU-701 in CabreiraAfter Cabreira, we followed this lane, below, that weaved around near the highway for another 2.0 kilometers towards the next tiny town of Fonfría.
The Lane From Cabreira to FonfríaAs you walk down the hill into town, be sure to look to your left! As you approach Fonfría you will catch your first glimpses of A Fonsagrada ahead, perched high on a hill. It was very encouraging for me! It didn’t look all that far away.
A Fonsagrada on a Hilltop to Your LeftThe lane ends at a T-intersection just before town, where you will turn right towards a fountain that is ahead on your right, see photo below.
Fuente Just Before FonfríaAfter the fountain, turn left at this building, below, to head into the town proper.
Continue along the lane into town, past the town church and when it looks like you will be joining the LU-701, the Camino veers off to the left onto another lane. When this lane ends after about only 100 meters, you will join the LU-701 on its left side on a nice, wide shoulder.
The Camino walks on the shoulder of the LU-701 for about 150 meters, then once again leaves the highway onto a lane to the left. This lovely lane is a shortcut that will take the pilgrimage traveler to the next town of Barbeitos. It won’t be long on this lane, when the town can be seen ahead as you crest the hill seen in the photo below.
The Lane From Fonfría to BarbeitosAnd at this crest of the hill, closer views of A Fonsagrada are now visible. The hill climb into town at the very end of the day also becomes more apparent!
Closer Views of A FonsagradaAfter about a 1.2 kilometer walk on this lane, you will arrive at a T-intersection with a frontage lane paralleling the LU-701 in Barbeitos. The Camino turns left onto the lane, and when it ends, turns right to cross the highway and pick up another lane on the other side. However if you look straight ahead, the Quatro Ventos Café Bar, pictured below, is visible across both the lane and the highway. Its pilgrim statues are very inviting!
Café Bar Quatro Ventos, BarbeitosThe Camino arrives here at the bar after 14.5 kilometers from Castro. This is the last bar until A Fonsagrada, another six kilometers away. We did not stop here at the time of this story, however, we have stopped here recently and it is a very nice place! The food is really good. Consider your own choice wisely!
There is also a possible accommodation in Barbeitos, if rather expensive for a pilgrim, the Olladas de Barbeitos, right across from the Quatro Ventos Bar.
The lane on the other side of the highway is initially made of paved stone, then dirt as it leaves Barbeitos, following the LU-701 to the north of the highway. The Camino remains on this lane for about 1.5 kilometers towards the next small town of Silvela.
I was very grateful for very little pavement walking on day seven of the Camino Primitivo, despite the close proximity of the highway. Glyvia and I continued on together, once again chatting freely. I am not sure I felt very refreshed after the silence! My sinus-filled head was not very clear!
After about 400 meters from the highway crossing, you will come to a Y-intersection staying to the left as directed. As you get near Silvela, there is a pleasing split-rail fence separating you from the highway, below, as you descend into town.
You will pass the town sign for the hamlet of Silvela after 16 kilometers. The town is only a few buildings and after barely 150 meters later, the Camino crosses the highway again, by the bus stop that you can see ahead in the photo, below, and toward the yellow building.
Cross the Highway at Bus StopThe Camino picks up the parallel lane on the other side of the highway, and follows it for about 150 meters until the last farm on the left and before the lane returns to the highway. Look carefully for a concrete waymark across from the silo (on your right), by a stone building (on your left) and perhaps hidden behind a row of nice flower pots. The waymark leads you to the left and between the buildings of the farm and towards a sign saying, “Via Romana” on it. I found this to be a bit confusing, as I would never have expected to walk through a farm! I felt like I was trespassing.
A gravel lane on the farm leads you between the large yellow building and a cement block building, and to the right to go around the back of the large yellow building! See the photo below.
Around the Back of the Farm BuildingAfter only 50 meters, the onward lane from the farm takes you by the quaint little Capilla de Santa Bárbara del Camino, below.
There used to be a sign posted on the door that read, "The Blessed St. Bárbara, whose name is written in heaven, saves stores of bread and wine and watches over all pilgrims."
At the time, I loved this prayer and spent a moment receiving this blessing from the locals, past, present and future! This was perhaps the highlight for me on day seven on the Camino Primitivo. Because of this, I kept the prayer written here for you as well!
There are some broken down picnic tables through here that hopefully will be fixed soon.
The Way forward from Silvela involves yet another climb, below.
The Climb Up From SilvelaFrom around 16.6 kilometers, at a high spot, the vista of A Fonsagrada (re)appeared. (Even though I have already posted vistas of A Fonsagrada, on my first time through this was my first realization that was the town ahead. Or it is possible that trees had been cleared since our first walk.)
The town is about 3.5 kilometers from this high point and it looked very close to me. I remember feeling great relief when I finally saw our destination. My "short" day had turned out to be not-so-easy after all. However, looks were deceiving. There is considerable terrain between this point and the town ahead and lots of elevation changes. The hilly terrain we had to accomplish to reach A Fonsagrada, felt like the worst three kilometers of my life.
From the farm in Silveda, the Camino follows similar-looking lanes that parallel the LU-701 for the next 2.5 kilometers all the way to the next town of Paradanova. After the first high point, descend to meet the LU-701, below.
Following the LU-701 Along its South SideCome to a crossroad with a paved road after 17 kilometers, but stay straight onward to continue to parallel the highway.
On the continuing lane, climb yet another hill, and descend the other side toward Paradanova. The nice split-rail fencing has reappeared for a short while. You can see A Fonsagrada really looming ahead now in the photo below. At this hillcrest, A Fonsagrada is still three kilometers away.
Rich, to be helpful, had taken all our food to carry in his pack, and he was nowhere to be seen. I had visions of him up ahead, already at the albergue, resting and eating. It made me really, really upset. No food and exhaustion, is clearly a button of mine that had been pushed! (I now understand the concept of being “hangry - hunger plus angry!)
Plus the thought of Rich being ahead of me, also seriously pushed another of my buttons! Yes, this is also a bit of a theme for me. I rationalized that I wanted to be in the company of my best buddy, and indeed this was partially true. I was also wallowing in self-pity.
Glyvia, my kind hiking partner, offered me her apple to assuage my hunger, but I was so close, I didn't want to stop. I preferred to slug on through until the albergue. I think I also wanted to stew a bit. Perhaps it helped to power me on! I sure know that I was quite upset. When I listened to my voice journal for the end of this day, the steam was really coming out of my ears! Thank God for my voice journal!!
By 18.7 kilometers, we finally arrived in the small town of Paradanova. At the entrance to town, there is a tiny Ermita de Santa Cruz that I totally missed, below. I was so discouraged, hungry and exhausted by the time I got here, that I believe I was just putting my head down and grunting my way through it, seeing nothing but the road ahead.
Ermita da Santa Cruz de ParadanovaA few steps after the ermita, you will come to a 5-point intersection. The LU-701 is farther on your right. Straight ahead you will see two concrete waymarks, below, giving you a choice of routes forward. The one on the left says “Por Fonsagrada.” That is the one you want. You have accomplished approximately 18.7 kilometers at this juncture.
Double Waymark ~ Two Choices of RoutesYour other choice of routes to the right, the way "Por Burón" is of similar length as the standard way, is perhaps a bit harder, and for certain much more solitary.
Few pilgrims take this variant because there are no services its entire length, when it joins the main route at the Hospital in Montouto, 11.3 kilometers later. Plus, the nearest accommodation is yet another 17 kilometers down the road in O Cádavo! More pilgrims might take this alternative in the future, if there were an albergue in Proba de Burón. Otherwise, it would be a monster 35 kilometers to the next accommodation! So for now, A Fonsagrada, in my opinion, is the only choice. To see more information about this alternative, click here. And when looking for GPS tracks, I could only find a gentleman named Carlos Lagarón who has uploaded his to Wikiloc: Click here for those. However, he begins his walk from A Fonsagrada, a doable variation of the “Variante de A Proba de Burón.” We shall see what the future will bring for this route, with a town filled with lots of pilgrimage history.
Back on the A Fonsagrada route, you take the dirt road to the left, below. You can see the final steep approach into town, ahead.
Left Turn at the Decision Point Towards A FonsagradaWalk southwest for almost exactly 1/2 kilometer and look for a lane that turns to the right, below. This lane will lead you up the steep hill into Fonsagrada. At least it is through a nicely shaded area!
Right Turn and Up the HillAfter 600 meters you will meet the LU-701, turn left and walk another 350 meters into the center of town, following the many yellow arrows to the church plaza.
There are many accommodation choices in A Fonsagrada, the Pensión Casa Manolo, on the north side of town, just a few blocks north of the church and west of the Camino. The 20-bed private Albergue - Pensión Casa Cuartel is right along the Camino, the first one that you will actually see after rejoining the LU-701. We have stayed here and it is friendly, comfortable and new.
Finally, we arrived at the church plaza, a lovely and inviting place. A few steps south of the plaza and a few more steps off-Camino to the left is the private, 34-bed Albergue Hostal Cantábrico where we stayed at the time of this story, modern and very well-equipped.
Albergue Hostal CantábricoThere is also the 42-bed municipal Albergue De Peregrinos Casa de Pasarín just steps from the church and across the street from the Casa Marentes. And finally, on the south side of town is the Hotel Pórtico right along the Camino.
Hanging out at the church in the center of town, we watched as pilgrim after pilgrim stumbled into town, looking bedraggled and exhausted, especially those that had come all the way from Grandas de Salime.
The town church is worth having a look, below, since it is more beautiful on the inside and there is also a pilgrim's office close by.
Iglesia de Santa María, A FonsagradaI seemed to have plenty of energy to explore around town, once I had re-joined my husband, had a nice shower and a nice snack! Our walk today had started at 0800 and ended at 1400, so it was a short day, relative to the others. But to me, this day seven on the Camino Primitivo was brutal for all its hills and because of my state of mind and my ill health.
Our Camino family who all eventually caught up with us in the albergue, gathered together in this outdoor café for a late lunch.
Rich, Elle, Maria, Magdalena, Kurt, Saskia, Francisco, Igor and GlyviaReflections on Day Seven of My Camino Primitivo
If the truth be told, despite my buttons and my endurance being pushed, like any human-child, getting to the point of sheer exhaustion and hunger while feeling ill, is not fun.
When I re-examine the hardships that can be found on any Camino, I realize that the struggle is part of the experience for sure, for whatever the Camino dishes out for you! The struggle was within myself, and fortunately I never took it out on anyone else.
However, I was disappointed in myself too, that I just could not push myself to the extremes that I thought I should! After all, I was from Colorado!
Without making too many excuses for myself, I really was subpar due to my illness, my lack of a good night's sleep and longing for the support of a close, loved one when I needed him most. I was very grateful for Glyvia that day.
When I finally did catch up to Rich towards the end of the day, he was only minutes ahead of me, and was not relaxing and dining at my expense. In my exhaustion, the actual picture was not as ugly as I had imagined it.
This reminds me of a saying that my dear, now-deceased mother used to say to me as a girl, whenever I was discouraged. She would say, "Things will look better in the morning." I can hear her clearly. And of course, she was right. Things always did look better in the morning.
Exhaustion does strange things to a pilgrimage traveler, and I was no exception on this day seven of my Camino Primitivo.
Things did look better to me the next morning, at the dawn of day eight, and I was able, once again, to get up the next day and repeat the process. This is the Camino, get up and on each day, start anew.
However, I would never let anyone underestimate the challenges that are found on the Primitive Way! The hills are relentless! And we even had good weather! Once again, while it threatened, it never rained. I shudder to think what my day seven on the Camino Primitivo would have looked like if I had to do this in pouring rain!
Salutation
May your own day seven on the Camino Primitivo be a learning experience as you test your limits. May you recognize your own buttons and find the Grace to meet your inner struggles!
May you kindly push your own limits, so that your boundaries are open, flexible and expanding. May your day seven on the Camino Primitivo be filled with only the lessons that will broaden your understanding of yourself! Buen Camino!
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