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Day Seven on the Camino Primitivo ~ Castro to A Fonsagrada, 20.2 Kilometers (12.55 Miles)
My day seven on the Camino Primitivo was about continuing to push my limits. ~ seriously pushing buttons and pushing limits.
"One finds limits by pushing them." ~ Hebert Simon, Nobel Prize-winning Social Scientist
If only the above quote were not true, but I was to find out that indeed, it was. There is a time in almost everyone's pilgrimage when you believe that you can go no further, however, there is always a way to dig just a little deeper.
Day Seven, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Day seven on the Camino Primitivo essentially follows alongside the AS-28 (while in Asturias) and then the LU-701, when crossing over into Galicia, as the map below shows.
This was supposed to be a short, easy day for me; one that I sorely needed, since I was nursing a cough, laryngitis and bronchitis. Once again, my coughing during the night afforded less than an optimal night's sleep for me.
The remote and Primitive Way is always full of surprises as I was to find out. There is no such thing as a "short" or "easy" day on it!
Here is our interactive Google Map of the GPS tracks for our day. I have placed all the available accommodations, places to eat, and churches along the way for your reference. There are no cafés in Castro, but your accommodation will provide you with food for an extra charge.
Fonsagrada has everything you could possibly need, so I did not place the numerous places for eating on the map, only the one where we ate in the center of town. There are few opportunities in-between, so a stocked pack is very helpful on this day!
The elevation profile for our day says it all. Starting from Castro, it is a strenuous climb of about 470 meters (1541 feet) over about 8.0 kilometers, to the high point, right at the border crossing from Asturias into Galicia. Then the meandering down towards Fonsagrada is very nice.
However the final stretch into A Fonsagrada is a surprisingly strenuous uphill where you gain 120 meters (400 feet) as you enter town. Part of the frustration is that you can see the city in the distance, long before you arrive! And so it is!
The Journey on Day Seven, Camino Primitivo
The day started out nice enough in Castro. The sky was full of clouds, but no rain, which made for a beautiful sunrise from the Albergue Juvenil de Castro, sitting on top of the hill.
I made preparations to leave with Glyvia, and my husband, Rich. The Primitive Way walks along a paved lane framed by stone walls, through Castro and about 400 meters onward follows this beautiful, gently climbing path, below.
Glyvia, Walking Compañera for this DayI had made a commitment to myself that I would spend the day walking with Glyvia, since she had been walking alone for several days prior. She enjoyed a good chat, so I intuitively knew she would enjoy the company. And frankly, I would as well.
The Way parallels the AS-28, to the West on a dirt lane and into the hamlet of Padraira, where we strolled by this historical site, the Ermita de San Lázaro de Padraira after about 1.6 kilometers into the day. This chapel is the only remaining building of a group that was built for the care of lepers.
The sign on the Ermita states it had been re-built in 1689, however, I read where the leper colony most likely began before 1581, when the first record of it was documented.
Even though I am a registered nurse, it felt eerie to me, paying homage here! I couldn't help having my mind wander to these poor, suffering souls.
Still climbing onward, the path continued.
The Climbing Country PathAbout another 900 meters from the Ermita, the Way leaves the nice path and joins the AS-28, turning right onto it, just before taking you into Arrotón along a brief side path to the south of the highway. In another few hundred meters, you rejoin the highway once again.
The signs ahead, in the photo below, state that Punto del Acebo is 4 kilometers away. I checked the elevation map. Four more kilometers of climbing! We were not yet halfway up the climb.
And that is the town of Peñafonte lit up ahead in the distance, under the windmills, our next destination.
Windmills Ahead on the AS-28I saw the ridge of windmills ahead and remembered yesterday, day six and its climb. I was beginning to tremble in fear at the sight of windmills! Was that the destination??
We had 470 meters (1541 feet) or so of elevation gain from Castro to Punta del Acebo. Onward!
After Arrotón it is about 1.6 kilometers to Peñafonte (variably called Peñafuente on some maps) along the AS-28 before turning right off the main road, into the town. The town is very quaint and inviting, with these interesting buildings, below, just before the church.
Old Buildings in PeñafonteThe Camino travels past the Iglesia de Santa María de Magdalena de Peñafonte, after 4.6 kilometers from Castro. The town church was built in 1605.
As we walked through Peñafonte, I took the following series of pictures our day seven on the Camino Primitivo. The sun was playing interestingly on the buildings as it came in and out of the threatening clouds.
Around the Wall and into the Forest
As we climbed up and out of Peñafonte, the views became sweeping, toward the valley floor below.
The View to the Valley Below on our Left Shoulders
Windmills Ahead and to our Right Shoulders
The Long Endless Morning Climb on Day Seven, Camino Primitivo
The Windmills Getting Closer!
We Are Now Higher Than the WindmillsAt 6.3 kilometers total, we crossed over the AS-28 from the north side, to the south side, near Bustelo.
We continued the climb to the windmills on the ridge, just as predicted!
Open, sweeping views were everywhere!
The View of the Cantabrians is Our RewardFor now, the path levels and the climb is almost over.
At the Crest of the Ridge the Primitive Way LevelsJust around 7.5 kilometers and two hours into our day, only and 1.2 kilometers from the last AS-28 crossing, we crested the top of the ridge where we communed with the windmills. This is the Alto do Acevo, the almost high point of the day.
The other side of the ridge led us into a more protected forest path.
Glyvia and Rich take the Path with The Camino Primitivo SignThe ultimate top, 500 meters past the Alto do Acevo and at 8.0 kilometers total, is where we crossed from Asturias into Galicia, more than halfway to Santiago de Compostela. This slate marker, below, denotes the border.
Having started our day at 0800, it was 10:00 when we crossed the border into Galicia, just 2 hours later. This view came into focus, below, within 15 minutes of the crossing. At this point is was 10:15.
It is only 3/4 kilometer from the border to the Bar Casa O Acebo, one of only two open cafe bars between Castro and A Fonsagrada. The next one was not for another 5.7 km. We decided to get a cafe con leche and a second breakfast, now, when it was available, after the long morning climb. I think I ran down the hill, I was so very ready for the break!
An important lesson on the Camino Primitivo, is that when the bars are open and available, take advantage of it! You never know when another opportunity will come along!
The First Open Bar on Day Seven of the Camino Primitivo ~ Bar Casa O AceboThe path descends to the LU-701 (which was the AS-28 in Asturias). The sign shows that it is still 12 kilometers to A Fonsagrada. We were not yet halfway on our day seven of the Camino Primitivo, but a few kilometers shy.
Sign to A Fonsagrada on Day Seven of our Camino PrimitivoWe paused at the waymark, a more embellished one than most. Glyvia was chipper and chatty for most of the way!
Glyvia at Waymark at Venta del AceboAfter our 30 minute stop at the Bar Casa O Acebo, and 8.8 kilometers into our day, we climbed up a short hill on a path for more sweeping views. How lovely was this sight, especially lovely with a full belly once again. The path lasted for only 1.2 kilometers before joining the LU-701 once again after 10 kilometers.
Sweeping Views Continue to Open of the Cantabrian MountainsIt was around this time that I grew weary of the ceaseless chatter that Glyvia and I were having. I needed some head space, and asked her if we could just walk together in silence. We walked on in silence, and I plugged into my Camino playlist. I needed some sort of inspiration, to keep on going. Rich had gone on ahead, to join others.
We both did quite well, just walking together, but in silence. I liked this and was happy that Glyvia respected my desire. She was a true companion!
For the remaining 10 kilometers of day seven on the Camino Primitivo, the way follows near and/or beside the LU-701, like this nice dirt lane shown below. The nice wooden fence gives a feeling of separation from the highway.
It is about 850 meters long where the path follows by the highway on the lane to walk into Cabreira, below, after 10.9 kilometers.
The Primitive Way Joins the LU-701 in CabreiraAfter Cabreira, we followed this path that weaved around near the highway for another 2.0 kilometers to, and through Fonfría.
The Path Between Cabreira and Fonfría
Fonfría Up Ahead
Fuente Just Before Fonfría
I enjoyed the walk through this hamlet but did not get the water from the fountain, so I do not know if it was safe. We usually carried our water for the day, in our hydration packs, so it was never an issue.
After strolling through Fonfría on day seven of the Camino Primitivo, we followed the highway for a short way, for about 300 meters and then took a left off the LU-701 to once again to follow a lovely double-track lane.
The Lane From FonfríaAfter only a short way, the next town of Barbeitos can be seen ahead, in the the photo below. The next available cafe bar is here, the Quatro Ventos Café Bar in Barbeitos, after 14.5 kilometers from Castro, right along the Way. This is the last bar until A Fonsagrada, another six or so kilometers away. We did not stop at this bar. Consider your own choice wisely! It is about 5.7 kilometers from the Bar O Acebo to the Quatro Ventos Café Bar.
There is also a possible accommodation, if rather expensive for a pilgrim, in Barbeitos, the Olladas de Barbeitos, right across from the Quatro Ventos Bar.
At Barbeitos, the Way crosses over the LU-701 again and follows to the north of the highway, as you can see in the photo below, if you look at the center of the image, for about 1.5 kilometers to the next town of Silvela.
I was very grateful for very little pavement walking on day seven of our Camino Primitivo, despite the close proximity of the highway. Glyvia and I continued on together, once again chatting freely. I am not sure I felt very refreshed. My sinus-filled head was not very clear!
The Path Follows the Highway
Onward on the Primitive WayWhen the way enters the hamlet of Silvela, after 16 kilometers, here in the photo below, it soon crosses to the south of the highway. I loved how the Camino de Santiago, when following the highway continued to be demarcated by the lovely wooden fence.
After Silvela, the Way turns south into the forest on a nice path for approximately 650 meters.
After Silvela, the Way Turns South Into the Forest AgainOnce deep in the forest again, you encounter this lovely pilgrim's chapel in a clearing. Posted on the door was a sign that read, "The Blessed St. Bárbara, whose name is written in heaven, saves stores of bread and wine and watches over all pilgrims."
I loved this prayer and spent a moment receiving this blessing from the locals, past, present and future! This was perhaps the highlight for me on day seven on our Camino Primitivo.
Climbing to yet another high spot, the vista of A Fonsagrada appeared, around 16.6 kilometers. The town was about 3.5 kilometers from here and looked very close to me. I remember feeling great relief when I finally saw our destination. My "short" day had turned out to be not-so-easy after all.
Looks were deceiving. The hilly terrain we had to accomplish to reach A Fonsagrada, felt like the worst three kilometers of my life. As you can see from the photo, there is considerable terrain between this point and the town ahead and lots of elevation changes.
We first stumbled up a mountain, then down to the other side, joining the highway to follow along it on parallel tracks for 1.7 kilometer until your arrival into the town of Paradanova. There is a tiny chapel of Santa Cruz in this town, that I totally missed. I was so discouraged, hungry and exhausted by the time I got here, that I believe I was just putting my head down and grunting my way through it, seeing nothing but the road ahead.
Rich, to be helpful, had taken all our food to carry in his pack, and he was nowhere to be seen. I had visions of him up ahead, already at the albergue, resting and eating. It made me really, really upset. No food and exhaustion, is clearly a button of mine that had been pushed! (My friend calls this “hangry - hunger plus angry!)
Plus the thought of Rich being ahead of me, also seriously pushed another of my buttons! Yes, this is also a bit of a theme for me. I rationalized that I wanted to be in the company of my best buddy, and indeed this was partially true. I was also wallowing in self-pity.
Glyvia, my kind hiking partner, offered me her apple to assuage my hunger, but I was so close, I didn't want to stop. I preferred to slug on through until the albergue. I think I also wanted to stew a bit. Perhaps it helped to power me on! I sure know that I was quite upset. When I listened to my voice journal for the end of this day, the steam was really coming out of my ears! Thank God for my voice journal!!
When you reach the chapel in Paradanova and you see the LU-701 on your right, look for a dirt lane ahead to the left of the frontage road. It is not the frontage road, which is paved, nor the hard left that is also paved but that goes due southward. There is a double mojón, the one on the left says “Por Fonsagrada.” That is the one you want. You have accomplished approximately 18.7 kilometers at this juncture.
The other way "Por Burón" to the right is of similar length as the standard way, is perhaps a bit harder, and for certain much more solitary. Few pilgrims take this variant because there are no services its entire length, when it joins the main route at the Hospital in Montouto, 11.3 kilometers later. Plus, the nearest accommodation is yet another 17 kilometers down the road in O Cádavo! More pilgrims might take this alternative in the future, if there were an albergue in Proba de Burón. Otherwise, it would be a monster 30 kilometers to the next accommodation! So for now, A Fonsagrada, in my opinion, is the only choice. To see more information about this alternative, click here.
Back on the main route, you take the dirt road southwest for almost exactly ½ kilometer, and look for a path that turns to the right. This path will lead you up the hill into Fonsagrada. After 600 meters you will join the LU-701, turn left and walk another 350 meters into the center of town.
The first accommodation available is the Pensión Casa Manolo, on the north side of town, just a few blocks north and west of the Camino. On the way to the center, pass the Albergue - Pensión Casa Cuartel.
Finally we arrived into the center of town, a lovely and inviting place. Below is the Albergue Hostal Cantábrico where we stayed, a modern and very well-equipped place a few steps off-route, just to the south of the church from the main square.
Albergue Hostal CantábricoThere is also a municipal Albergue De Peregrinos Casa de Pasarín just steps from the church. And on the south side of town is the Hotel Pórtico right along the Camino.
The town church is worth having a look, since it is more beautiful on the inside and there is also a pilgrim's office close by. I seemed to have plenty of energy to explore around town, once I had rejoined my husband, and had a nice shower, and a nice snack!
Church of A FonsagradaOur walk today had started at 8:00 and ended at 2:00, so it was a short day, relative to the others. But to me, this day seven on the Camino Primitive was brutal for all its hills.
Our Camino family, who all eventually caught up with us in the albergue, gathered together in this outdoor café for a late lunch.
Rich, Elle, Maria, Magdalena, Kurt, Saskia, Francisco, Igor and GlyviaReflections on Day Seven of My Camino Primitivo
If the truth be told, despite my buttons and my endurance being pushed, like any human-child, getting to the point of sheer exhaustion and hunger while feeling ill, is not fun.
When I re-examine the hardships that can be found on any Camino, I realize that the struggle is part of the experience for sure, for whatever the Camino dishes out for you! The struggle was within myself, and fortunately I never took it out on anyone else.
However, I was disappointed in myself too, that I just could not push myself to the extremes that I thought I should! After all, I was from Colorado!
Without making too many excuses for myself, I really was subpar due to my illness, my lack of a good night's sleep and longing for the support of a close, loved one when I needed him most. I was very grateful for Glyvia that day.
When I finally did catch up to Rich towards the end of the day, he was only minutes ahead of me, and was not relaxing and dining at my expense. In my exhaustion, the actual picture was not as ugly as I had made it.
This reminds me of a saying that my dear, now-deceased mother used to say to me, as a girl, whenever I was discouraged. She would say, "Things will look better in the morning." I can hear her clearly. And of course, she was right. Things always did look better in the morning.
Exhaustion does strange things to a pilgrimage traveler, and I was no exception on this day seven of my Camino Primitivo.
Things did look better to me the next morning, at the dawn of day eight, and I was able, once again, to get up the next day and repeat the process. This is the Camino, get up and on each day, start anew.
However, I would never let anyone underestimate the challenges that are found on the Primitive Way! The hills are relentless! And we even had good weather! Once again, while it threatened, it never rained. I shudder to think what my day seven on the Camino Primitivo would have looked like if I had to do this in pouring rain!
Salutation
May your own day seven on the Camino Primitivo be a learning experience as you test your limits. May you recognize your own buttons and find the Grace to meet your inner struggles!
May you kindly push your own limits, so that your boundaries are open, flexible and expanding. May your day seven on the Camino Primitivo be filled with only the lessons that will broaden your understanding of yourself! Buen Camino!
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