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Day Eight on the Camino Primitivo ~ A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo, 24.6 Kilometers (15.3 Miles)
Our day eight on the Camino Primitivo was a grueling and hot day, but charmed by an ancient neolithic and pilgrimage site at the top of a splendid mountain pass, where I felt the most stirrings of "home."
"While some physical places and landscapes feel more like home to us, ultimately it is in service to us discovering the primal home within each one of us.What would it be like to move through the world and, no matter where you found yourself, to recognize yourself as fully at home?" ~ Christine Valters Paintner, The Soul of a Pilgrim: Eight Practices for the Journey Within
Day Eight, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Here is the interactive Google map from the GPS tracks of our day eight on the Camino Primitivo. It was another difficult day full of climbing, and while most of the day was spent off the pavement, the brutal heat on this day made up for any comfort there!
The route essentially follows the LU-530, as you can see on the map below, with nice shortcuts through the countryside.
I have placed the available services along the route, on the map, for your planning. As you can see, there are plenty of them if you wish to find something to eat and drink along the way. There are not many accommodations, except in the beginning steps.
As you can see in the elevation profile below, there are significant elevation changes on day eight on the Camino Primitivo! The big climb up to Montouto of about 200 meters (650 feet) feels strenuous, but it is not as drastic as the prior climbs thus far.
Then, another extremely steep descent into Paravella of about 444 meters (1456 feet) is once again rough on the shins and knees. This descent is followed by yet another climb towards A Fontaneira of approx 250 meters (820 feet) before the final descent for the day into O Cádavo.
Day Eight on the Camino Primitivo Begins
I had managed to get a good nights sleep the night before, despite the packed, noisy and echoing albergue. The Cantábrico is a large and bright albergue, in A Fonsagrada, but the many pilgrims staying there made it loud and full of echoes. Fortunately, the space is divided into four smaller rooms that sleep about 10 each.
Here we are in the morning, gathering for breakfast. We are having leftover Tarta de Fonsagrada, and cafe con leche, in addition to our toast and yogurt.
Igor, Ulli, Kurt, Brian, Lisbeth and GlyviaIgor, on the left, in the photo above, our Spanish ambassador, had bought this lovely cake the night before, to share with his Camino friends. It is a most delicious tarta, made with almonds, ground in the cake, and for decoration. It is a specialty of the region, and unavailable anywhere else, so we were told. It was absolutely delicious, both times we had it!
Do try the Tarta de Fonsagrada when you arrive there. It is a must-do!
Tarta de FonsagradaThe Day's Journey
Walking from the center of town, in A Fonsagrada, after the church and along the Rúa Mayor, one walks downhill to the LU-530 where it joins it in just under 1/2 kilometer.
At this intersection there is a Repsol gas station with a small grocery store and a bar, both open early! We loaded up with Halls for my throat and snacks for the day. I was better this morning, but my laryngitis and cold persisted. I was very grateful to find the convenience store open so early! Thank-you Spain!
Immediately after the station, the Way turns right onto a side road, the Rúa das Rodas as it parallels the LU-530 highway for a short 200 meters before joining it again. The town cemetery is across the highway at this intersection.
Farther along the highway to the right, you see the exit sign for A Fonsagrada, pictured below.
Walk along the highway for only a few meters, when once again, you veer to the right onto a side road, this time for only about 100 meters. Pass some picnic tables along the way.
Join the LU-530 highway again, this time along a wonderful pilgrim’s path to the right of the roadway and the protective guard rail. Notice the massive Iglesia de San Juan de Padrón, ahead on the hill to your right. That is your next destination in the town of Padrón.
When the pilgrim’s path ends at the next intersection, below, after about another 100 meters, turn to the right as directed and walk into town and to the church.
Right Turn Towards PadrónArrive at the church after not quite 1.5 kilometers from the start at the center of A Fonsagrada.
Iglesia de San Juan de Padrón, Day Eight, Camino PrimitivoTurn left after the church by a fountain, staying to the right a few steps later, and pass the Casa da Lembranza, where you can get private rooms if you prefer the casa rural accommodation.
A few steps past the casa rural, the pavement ends and becomes a lovely farmer’s lane, below. And you can see that just after the pasture with the cows, the Camino Primitivo heads into the forest, bending to the south on a parallel track to the LU-530.
After 2/3 kilometer, the track crosses the highway, passes the Padrón cemetery and follows the highway on the left side for another 500 meters, before coming upon a Camino área de descanso, or rest area, with picnic tables, below.
Come to Rest Area with Picnic TablesThere have been quite a bit of Camino improvements through here, including the direction to turn left after the tables, and join the track as it bends back and goes under the highway. Or you could just cross the highway to the other side! It didn’t feel all that dangerous to me.
Whichever way you cross the road, there is a fountain, called the Fonte do Pastizal, below, on your right. This fountain is after 2.9 kilometers into the day.
Immediately across from the fountain, find the path to the left, where the Camino Primitivo takes the pilgrimage traveler through this area, below, once a thick forest, now dramatically clear cut. This photo also shows the small climb that is necessary after the fountain.
The Primitive Way Turns Left Here By the Picnic TablesMany years ago, I took this next photo, below, which shows the forest as it was after reaching the top of the small climb. This is still one of my favorite Camino photos of all time, so I kept it here for nostalgia’s sake. The misty and serene trail through the thick forest, for me, embodies the Spirit of the camino. I was so surprised the first time I saw the clear cutting! What a difference a day can make!
One-half kilometer after the fountain and at the top of the hill, you will encounter a huge sign and a path to the left, see photo below. It is 200 meters down the hill to the complex called the "Complejo O Piñeiral," which gets rave pilgrim reviews. You can just make out the complex in the photo. It has a restaurant, hotel and albergue. The place looks quite nice if you click on the link to have a look. This accommodation's location creates an opportunity to lengthen the prior day by 3.4 kilometers from A Fonsagrada if desired.
Turnoff to the Complejo O PiñeiralAfter the turnoff, walk down the hill on the other side, for another 1/4 kilometer when the Way crosses over the LU-530 again.
Walk another 250 meters, and cross the highway again to cut off a loop of highway and avoid it yet again. It is along this cutoff, below, that you reach the low point, after about 3.8 kilometers into the day, and now begin the long 4.7 kilometer climb to Montouto, the high point of the day.
Low Point Along the Path Below the LU-530After crossing the LU-530, as you climb and about 300 meters later, the forest opens and you come upon a cluster of buildings that is the town of Vilardongo, not pictured. This town may be easy to miss! Once you are through town, continue the climb through open meadows, below. Are those windmills I see in the distance? Hmm - yes, once again we are headed to the windmills!
The Open Climb After VilardongoWhen you reach this high point, below, you can see the farms of the town of Pedrafitelas ahead. The waymark in the photo reads 147.984.
Pedrafitelas Ahead at Km Waymark 148Descend toward town and walk through a farm, coming to an intersection with a paved road, but walking straight through it, below.
Cross Intersection at FarmAbout 200 meters past the intersection, come to this wonderful pilgrim’s rest area with picnic tables, below, after 6.2 kilometers total, that gazes down to the valley below.
Rest Area Overlooks PedrafitelasThe morning of day eight on our Camino Primitivo was very, very quiet as Rich and I chose not to talk much, but enjoy the stillness. We were early enough that very few pilgrims were on the road. It was a much-needed reprieve for me. I had a singing and grateful heart.
After the picnic area, the Way re-enters the forest which continues for about the next kilometer. Initially, the trail descends from the picnic area, then climbs once again as you gain more elevation walking toward the windmills! The forest walk is a fantastic reprieve, and the path is improved in places and lined with old stone walls in other places, below.
Forest Walk After PedrafitelasOnce you reach the next cluster of buildings, and when the track becomes paved, below, you have arrived into the town of Montouto. You are still 1.3 kilometers from the top.
Walking Through the Town of MontoutoWalk through town, staying low and to the left at the Y-intersection at the town’s exit, and a few steps later, staying high and to the right at the next Y-intersection. After this turn, the pavement disappears.
Continue the climb on the somewhat eroded dirt road, where 300 meters after the last Y-intersection, come to another one, and stay low and to the left. The final steep pitch remains, to the top of the ridge and to the Hospital de Montouto. This first building you will see is the wonderful little chapel, below, the Capilla de Hospital de Montouto, awaiting your prayers of gratitude. I lingered here for some time, breathing and taking in the moment.
It is a total of 8.5 kilometers from A Fonsagrada to the top of this climb. You will not be disappointed with what awaits you for your efforts.
Remember that this is where the Variante de A Proba de Burón, before A Fonsagrada, rejoins this main route as described in day seven.
Just beyond the chapel is the actual Hospital, still in very good condition as you can see in the next photos. The entryway is at the gate that you can see on the left side of the photo, below. The Variante de A Proba de Burón route actually walks through the Hospital from the north to join the main route at the entryway gate. And indeed, the windmills are just above the Hospital on the ridge, on both sides.
The Montouto pilgrim's hospital was founded in 1360 by Pedro I, the Cruel, then moved to another site and rebuilt in 1698, on this spot, which was used up until the mid-20th century! This is why it is still so well-preserved. You can see wells, water/sewer canals and well-preserved walls and buildings here on the top of the ridge. This is where food and fire was given to the starving and freezing pilgrims, in addition to nursing care if needed. The complex included stables, kitchens with ovens, cellars, water tanks and two chapels.
Entry to the Hospital de Montouto on the Left
Just behind the Hospital is a small grouping of standing stones, called the Pedras Dereitas attributed to Neolithic times. This most ancient formation was an indication to me that this site has been held sacred for many thousands of years!
Unfortunately, our last time through, we could hardly find this dolmen, because it was hidden in the tall shrubs as you can see in the photo. We actually had to step on the willows in front of them to take this photo. What a shame! You would not have any clue this was here unless you already knew where it was! I hope this improves in the near future. If you try to find it, look for a small clump of willows just beyond the gate on the right side.
Apparently, another dolmen, the Menhir de Pedra Labrada is nearby, as well as other neolithic tombs, indicating when I did the research, that indeed, this was a sacred place for many, many years.
Because of the proximity of these ancient sites with the Camino de Santiago and its Original Way (meaning the first of the Caminos), some have associated the modern, sacred Camino with a pre-Christian pilgrimage path. Interesting, isn't it? I was fascinated by this site!
Even now, every July 25th, the locals celebrate San Tiago, the Apostle St. James, here, just as they do in Santiago de Compostela. It would be wonderful to be part of this celebration, of which no one really knows about. Yet another ceremony, among the many that must have been held here over the centuries!
For me, this very magical place, where centuries of pilgrims had come for connection to the sacred, was not easily forgotten. I was reluctant to move on. But alas, isn't that what a pilgrim does?
The Reason to Have a Plan
Later, at dinner, on the evening of day eight on the Camino Primitivo, I asked my fellow pilgrimage travelers how they liked the Hospital de Montouto. Very few of them knew of its significance, they had barely stopped, and didn't even see the Neolithic Stones behind the ruins. I was amazed. It was the highlight of my day. This, dear reader, will not happen to you will it??
I forced myself to travel on from here, but I could have stayed in this spot, all day, meditating and contemplating this sacred place. All I can say about this sacred place is that it made me feel alive. Centuries of human spiritual connection happened here.
There is no more reason to have a plan for your day, than to understand what sites you will pass, and their significance. Never was this more apparent to me than on day eight on the Camino Primitivo. (I would also add day five, on the Hospitales Route as equally if not more significant.)
For me, this sacred site portrayed the very humanness and realness of the pilgrimage. When you get to the hospitals, you know this is where the original way actually went, in comparison to walking on modern roads and altered paths of the Camino de Santiago elsewhere. Centuries of pilgrims actually trod here! On this very earth!
To walk on the Earth that was actually trod by centuries of pilgrims who were doing the Camino for healing, for personal spiritual reasons, for absolution or for freedom from imprisonment for crimes ~ for all these things, seemed so significant to me.
The Journey Continues
Next on the pilgrimage road is the long and gradual descent ahead, to the next town of Paradavella. You will drop 344 meters (1130 feet) over the next 4.0 kilometers to reach the center of town.
For this onward Camino, look for a road to the left of the entryway to the Hospital - that is the one you will need to take. It is a high shelf road that affords many wonderful views of the valleys below, as the Way alternates between clear cut and forested areas.
Descending High Shelf Road from the Hospital de MontoutoThe Way is well-waymarked through here, but several landmarks will ensure you are going in the right direction. The first comes about halfway down the ridge after 2.3 kilometers and 10.8 kilometers total, when the Camino crosses a paved roadway, continuing straight onward, and 300 meters later, reach the second landmark, a prominent powerline, below.
Views Abound on Descent to ParadavellaWhen the pilgrimage trail reaches the edge of Paravadella, 3,5 kilometers later, it comes out at the perfectly located Casa Mesón, pictured below, the only bar in town. It was only 10:30, but on the Camino Primitivo, you eat food when you can get it! Besides, coffee and toast only lasts so long, and we had already logged in 12 kilometers, or so.
Inviting Picnic Area at the Casa MesónHere we had giant, unbelievably delicious sandwiches! I had tuna and olive, with fresh, beautiful sliced tomatoes and mayonnaise! A far cry from the usual dry sandwich of ham and cheese, of which I had grown very tired!
Of course, we also had café con leche to add to our revival. In fact, the bocadillos were so large, an entire baguette, that I gave half of mine to Glyvia, the "Camino Mother" and Rich saved half of his to take away for later.
I was humored as I watched Igor, our Spanish ambassador, order a tomato with his bocadillo, when we all seemed so excited about it. Instead of putting the tomato inside his sandwich, he rubbed it on the bread, moistening the bread and discarding the tomato! Ah, the difference in cultures!
It's a pleasant 170 meter stroll from the Casa Mesón on the lane to town, where the Camino Primitivo rejoins the LU-530 by turning to the right and walks you through the center of Paradavella.
The town is very small, and within a few meters along the highway, you will see these very interesting round houses, called pallozas, below. To read more about these interesting structures, I found this link on the palloza round house. They were built to house cattle and withstand strong storms. Another interesting feature in the Galician landscape.
After only about 300 meters on the LU-530, and after passing the round houses at the exit to town, the Camino Primitivo leaves the highway on another path to the right. It remains on this path for the next 1.4 kilometers, following the path of the highway on its west side. Because Paravadella is a low point, it can only mean that the path will climb up and away from town.
Along the way the Camino drops briefly to cross a nicely-fenced drainage with a small waterfall and tank, and takes steps carved into the dirt path itself.
Fenced Stream Crossing, Day Eight, Camino PrimitivoAfter climbing up from the drainage, views back toward the Montouto ridge are visible. The hospital is just to the right of the three windmills on the top of the ridge in the photo below. It is in the low point between all the windmills. It is fun to see where you were and how far you have come!
Views of Montouto on the Ridge by WindmillsAfter 14 kilometers into day eight, the Camino Primitivo crosses the highway to walk toward the next tiny hamlet of A Calzada another 120 meters farther along. A few meters after the crossing, join the paved road on a loop as it turns to the right to walk through the tiny town. Below is another example of traditional Galician structures adapted for modern use, as we walked past the town. I adored the slate roofs. You may miss the town, but this structure is right along the Way. In fact there is a town sign by this building that says, “Degolada.” Not sure if this denotes another town, but it is a landmark.
Continue along the paved road, through a wooded area, for about 1/3 kilometer until you reach the next landmark, the Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Degolada, not pictured. Turn right at the church.
Past the church, the pavement ends at an interesting round stone building, and enters the forest once again on a quiet dirt lane. It was very nice to be entering a forest again, as the day grew hotter, and to be walking mostly downhill.
Forest Walk After A CalzadaApproximately 2/3 kilometer later cross the drainage of the Rego da Pasadiña and not quite another 2/3 kilometer later, arrive at a historic homestead with many interesting slate-roof and stone buildings, below. The Camino path turns to the right in the center of the buildings, but there is a pilgrim’s rest area to the left by the turn, after 15.9 kilometers total for day eight on the Camino Primitivo.
Be sure to look to the right at this area, because as you turn to the right, there are two wonderful old stone buildings, shown next.
Interesting Stone Homestead BuildingsIt is at this rest area that you will have reached the low point of the day and ahead of you is the next 3.4 kilometer-long climb for the day to the final high point, the Alto Da Fontaneira. The altitude gain is about 300 meters, (984 feet), so you may want to stop here to fuel up, or in the next town of A Lastra, another 1.2 kilometers farther.
It is another full kilometer through the forest after the rest area, crossing three drainages, one with a waterfall like below.
Drainage with WaterfallWhen the lane meets the highway again, it joins it on a lovely new boardwalk, below. After the short boardwalk ends, turn to the right onto the pavement at the fork in the road, just before the white building seen in the photo, to walk towards A Lastra.
The Fork in the Highway Towards A LastraJust after this turn several meters later, there is a café bar, the Xestoso, on the left, which is a very simple place with few selections, however it was the only place in town our last walk through. It was a very hot day and we stepped into the shade whenever we could.
From the bar, walk 300 meters down the hill to the town church in the center, the Iglesia de San Juan de Lastra, below. I tried to look inside the church, but unfortunately, it was closed. My prayers would have to be said outside. At this church we were about 17.5 kilometers into the day.
Iglesia de San Juan de LastraAfter walking through A Lastra on the LU-530, the Camino Primitivo takes a side road off to the left, and through more very quaint buildings. In the one below, the new graces the old!
The Side Road Through A LastraThe narrow paved side road, initially flat, begins to climb in earnest up and away from town. About 350 meters after leaving the main road, you will come to this pilgrim’s refreshment station, by donation, after about 17.9 kilometers into the day. It is conveniently located on the edge of town, where the pavement ends and just before the final push to the Alto Da Fontaneira. It was hard not to stop, because the selections were so very lovely, so we did, but only briefly.
Homemade Lemonade and MuffinsYes, then we head back into the forest on a dirt lane and it is sharply uphill for the next 1.3 kilometers, see next photos.
Back Again Into the Forest
The Push to the Second Top for the DayJust steps after the top, you see the LU-530 highway again, in front of you. In fact the named pass, the Alto da Fontaneira, is only named along the roadway, if you look to your right before joining it. Instead it is a merging left for the pilgrim, onto the highway, but with a wonderful improved pilgrims path to the side to protect you.
Within less than 150 meters, the LU-530 takes a bend to the right, where you must cross a side road to continue along the improved path, walking downhill another 300 meters to enter the town of A Fontaneira.
Walking into Fontaneira on Day Eight of the Camino PrimitivoIt is about 2.3 kilometers from A Lastra to A Fontaneira. We were now about 19.8 kilometers into the day. We sat in the shade for a much needed reprieve from the sun between the café and the church, sipping our favorite, Aquarius, a lightly lemon- flavored, lightly carbonated and lightly sweetened beverage. It is the perfect revival drink! It was only 1:30 and we still had five kilometers to go!
Once again the church in town was also closed, but they allow pilgrims to ring the bell! I don’t think it is very wise for every pilgrim to disturb the town peace by ringing the bell, but I must say that I enjoyed it when another pilgrim pulled the chords!
After our brief re-hydration break, we were back on the road again, walking through the rest of A Fontaneira, for a full 400 meters along the LU-530. Once the sidewalk ends, crossover to the safer left side where there is a small paved shoulder and at times a casual pilgrim’s path to the left of the shoulder. I was surprised at the wonderful improved path into town, and equally surprised that there was none upon leaving town. I expect this might change in the future.
It is at the town exit sign that you need to look for a road turning to the left, finally leaving the highway. This sign is quite small, so look out for it. Only a few steps after the turn, there is the town cemetery in front of you and where a grassy path turns to the right, just before it, see photo below. This turn is better-marked with a concrete waymark.
Turn at A Fontaneira CemeteryThe path will keep you off the LU-530 for the next 750 meters, and with a few trees to give you only a bit of a reprieve from the scorching sun, below. Fortunately this section is essentially downhill.
Not Much Shade in this Forest!After the 3/4 kilometer walk on the path, you can see in the photo below, the Way rejoins the pavement of a parallel side road, and then the actual LU-530 after about 21 kilometers into the day. You can also see in the photo, the final hill climb on the highway that is still ahead of you as you walk one kilometer more along the roadway. The sun (in August) was near-brutal by now. I put my head down, and marched on.
Joining the LU-530 Highway AgainAt least you don’t have to worry about cars, on the pilgrim’s path parallel to the road. And the photo, below, shows three pilgrims crossing over, when the Way finally leaves the highway.
Walking Along the LU-530 on Side PathAfter leaving the highway onto a side road to the right, after about 21.9 kilometers, there was still a bit more of the climb ahead that you can see, below. The path was long, straight, dry and hot.
The Final Section of the Last ClimbAfter reaching the final top, finally, after about one-half kilometer from the LU-530 turn, see photo below, and after 22.5 kilometers total, you can see the long, open stretch of road before you! I was not sure if it was best to see so far ahead, or downright discouraging. However, what appears to be another climb in the distance, really isn’t anything more than a bump in the road!
The Brutal, Long, Hot and Dry Afternoon StretchThank God these last few kilometers were not hill climbing! It was so hot and dry, and this long stretch seemed to go on forever! I like to suck on sugar-free mints to help keep my mouth moist, and I think I went through half a bag of mints in this section!
On this home stretch, a young man from Poland blew by us like we were standing still! Then we passed someone else with sweat pouring down his brow! Ah, the interesting differences in the various pilgrims!
Once you reach the top of that long stretch ahead, about 1.1 kilometers later, you will reach a convergence of several roads. Keep straight onward and at the crest, lo and behold, the town of O Cádavo can be seen ahead to the left and at the bottom of the hill, see the next photo. You can see the town in the distance, quite a ways ahead, though at the time I didn't know it and didn't dare hope it to be true. But it was true, and we were almost there.
O Cádavo, Visible Ahead at Bottom of HillAfter not even another kilometer, but on a very steep descent, the first building to come into view is the municipal albergue. The laundry hanging out was a sure sign!
The Albergue de Peregrinos de O CádavoWhen we took one look at the bare-bones municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Cádavo, we decided that we would leave the Camino experience behind and stay in a hotel! I really needed a good night's sleep, without the fear of waking others with my coughing. At the time of this writing, the only option available was the Hotel Moneda, towards the south end of town. It is a comfortable and adequate place with a bar and a restaurant.
It used to be that the Hotel Moneda was also the only restaurant in town and it didn’t open until 9:00 pm for dinner! With my cold, I was exhausted and barely able to hold my head up already at 8:00 pm, so Rich and I ordered only the Caldo Gallego soup, left money for our friends to pay for us, and then indeed, used my illness as an excuse to retire around 10:00 p.m. I was running on empty!
Currently, the Hotel Moneda now opens at 7:00 p.m. for dinner and you no longer have to wait until 9:00 p.m. anymore! I suppose we pilgrims are indeed changing the culture, at least along the Camino route.
To continue onward on the Camino, a few steps after the albergue, you will enter a large plaza, called the Praza Campo da Feira, below, with several municipal buildings, first the Center for Health (Centro de Saúde), and the Sociocultural Center, both on the right. The Pension Porta Santa is on your left. We have stayed here and it is a wonderful haven for pilgrims! The proprietress is attentive and kind.
Praza Campo da Feira, O CádavoContinue walking through this large plaza, straight and down the hill for another block when you come to the main street through town, the LU-750. This is where I will end this stages’ narrative.
The Camino turns to the right at this intersection, but to find most of the accommodations in town, you will need to turn to the left. There is also a wonderful, historic fountain, to the left a few more steps from the intersection if you are just passing through and need a fill up!
Historic Fountain, O CádavoThere are two other private albergues in O Cádavo called the Albergue San Mateo and Albergue Pension Porta Santa, and rooms at the Pensión Eligio Bar Restaurante and the Pensión A Marronda, all essentially right along the Camino and in the center of town.
Reflections
If it weren't for the splendor of the neolithic stones and the Hospital de Montouto, I think I would have spent the day trying to figure out what the BLEEP I thought I was doing here on the Original Way!
If it hadn't been for the sacred ridge at Hospital Montouto, I would have absolutely hated this day! But I connected there, in this sacred place, and found a home among the other spirits that continue to linger there.
The day was disgustingly hot, the Primitive Way was difficult and mostly, I just put my head down and grunted onward. Each and every afternoon had become nothing but a grunt, where I was repeatedly overly tired and hungry with aching shins and feet! My illness still wasn't gone! It was relentless ups and downs, toward endless ridges of windmills!
The one great thing for this day, we were told that it was the final day in which we would have a climb up greater than 1000 meters. Maybe this day eight on the Camino Primitivo, was truly an over-the-hump day!
While I hadn't complained about my cold and laryngitis, when I listened to my voice journal on this day eight of my Camino Primitivo, I did actually decide to "take the day off" from other pilgrims. Rich and I decided to walk together, but alone and in silence. I just had to rest my voice. I just couldn't socialize with anyone, in fact, I was growing tired of everyone!
However, despite my best efforts, the Camino followed me everywhere I went on day eight!
I was also becoming quite disillusioned on this day eight of my Camino Primitivo. I had just learned that two fellow pilgrims had hooked up and were having sex in another albergue the night before. I was also disappointed that all my interactions had been merely social chats. It felt like no one was on a spiritual journey, no contemplation, just chit chat.
I was disappointed in others, for sure. However, if I reflected deeply on myself, I was also disappointed in myself, that yes, most often our humanness shines through. I was no exception.
I started to think that my illness was a convenient excuse to go to bed early at night, an excuse not to talk to anyone, and an excuse to stay out of the gossip and hubbub. I hated the noise and echo in the large, open albergue the night before. I truly wanted comfort and my own space. However, I was not able to find it, really, on this day eight of my Camino Primitivo.
And this also, I shall include. And so will you, dear pilgrim, as this is all part of the Camino experience!
Coming to this understanding, I smiled and made peace with myself. This was indeed, the journey. Could I truly be "home?"
Salutation
May you also dare to journey inward to find your own spiritual home, however that looks for you. May you find the Grace that allows for the highs as well as the lows, and all the emotions of the human experience, as I indeed found on my day eight on the Camino Primitivo! Buen Camino!
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The Spiritual Adventure of a Lifetime, Following in the Footsteps of St. Teresa of Ávila!
The Amazing Mountain Route Alternative, the Camino Sanabrés, from Granja de Moreruela on the Vía de la Plata!
The Most Incredible Mountain Scenery on this Camino from Leon to Oviedo!
The Shortest of the Caminos, but Not Easy!
The Very First, Original Camino from Oviedo to Santiago
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Shroud Yourself in Mystery, along the Via de Francesco!
Walk in the Footsteps of St. Francis, and Connect Deeply to the Saint and to Nature in the Marvelous Italian Countryside!
Recent Articles
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Day Thirteen on the Camino Primitivo ~ Lavacolla to SDC, 10 Km
Mar 25, 25 12:27 PM
Our day thirteen on the Camino Primitivo was our final day to experience all the emotions that seemed to present themselves to us as we walked our final steps into Santiago de Compostela. -
Day Five on the Camino Primitivo via the Hospitales Route
Jan 24, 25 10:00 AM
Day five on the Camino Primitivo via the Hospitales Route was the most glorious day for me, in all ways ~ physically, emotionally and spiritually. -
Day Five on the Camino Primitivo, Pola de Allande Route
Jan 20, 25 09:34 PM
On day five of the Camino Primitivo, the Pola de Allande Route is the longer alternative to the Hospitales Route.
Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!
Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )
Gregory BackPack - My Favorite Brand
Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!
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My absolute favorite book on how to be a pilgrim:
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