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Day Five on the Camino Primitivo ~ Campiello to Berducedo via the Hospitales Route, 27.2 Kilometers (16.9 Miles)
Day five on the Camino Primitivo was the most glorious day for me, in all ways ~ physically, emotionally and spiritually. In fact, I was so enthralled on this day, that I will warn you, my venerable reader, that this article will be very long.
No other day impacted me like this day, from a historical perspective, and specifically from the empathy that I felt for pilgrims of all times, traveling this route. The abject hardships that the collective pilgrimage traveler had to face on this route impacted me deeply ~ and I had a "good" weather day!
The physical thrill of hiking above the tree-line, my body and my shins finally settling in to cause no pain, a low percentage of pavement walking, no fog or rain, a full pack of food, and a personal epiphany, all led to a pilgrimage traveler's heaven. It was a day above the clouds for me.
"Open your ears to the ancestors and you will understand the language of spirits." (African Proverb)"Without history, [there is] no life." (Nigeria)
"The future emerges from the past." (Senegal)
~ A collection from Mary Harrell-Sesniak
Day Five, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Here are the GPS tracks for our day five on the Hospitales Route, starting in Campiello. It is a long day, for which you must come prepared as there are absolutely no services from Borres until Berducedo. Stock up your packs with plenty of food and water in Campiello for this day!
Here is the elevation profile for our day five on the Hospitales Route. There is little to no elevation gain between Campiello and Borres, as you walk the 3.0 kilometers, mostly along roads between the two towns. After Borres the real climb begins and the elevation gain of about 640 meters (2100 feet) is significant!
Upon reaching the Puerto del Palo, the second summit of the day, the difficulties of the day are not yet over, as the descent into Montefurado is extremely steep.
In the event that the weather is bad with fog, rain or snow, or if you prefer the route through Pola de Allande, the route is the orange line on the map above. We did not do this route, so the GPS tracks are from Wikiloc. Here is its elevation profile from Borres to Berdecedo. The total mileage is 27.4, but if you start back in Campiello, it is about 5.4 kilometers more, at a total of 32.8. A very long and difficult day! This is why many pilgrims have an overnight stop in Pola de Allande.
You can see in the profile below, that you lose quite a bit of elevation, after leaving Lavadoira, not quite 8.0 kilometers into the day, dropping all the way to Pola de Allande, the low point of the day. Then it is a dramatic climb of 619 meters (2030 feet), back up to Puerto del Palo, the high-point of this route, where the Pola route re-joins the Hospitales Route. As stated above, the steep drop from Puerto del Palo is not for the faint-hearted!
The nice part about the Pola route is that there are three accommodations in Pola de Allande, so you may choose to break up this stage if you so desire. There is the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Pola de Allande, the private Albergue La Casita de Aba, the Albergue Donativo Polagrino, (+34 651 068 840), the Hotel Nueva Allandesa and the Hotel Restaurante Lozano, all at your service.
Or you can continue on for another 2.8 kilometers (16.9 km from Campiello and 13.9 km from Borres) to the hamlet of Peñaseita and stay at the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Peñaseita. If you choose this last option, obtain the keys to the albergue at the Bar Casa Viñas by the albergue and along the main road. You can also get a private room at the Casa Viñas (+34 985 80 71 16) for only 20 Euros/person. Staying in Peñaseita would knock off about 100 meters (328 feet) of the climb to the Puerto del Palo the next day.
The Journey
We had heard rumors of giant cups of café con leche at the Casa Hermania in Campiello. We stopped by for breakfast and were not disappointed! Accompanied by a large basket of tostada, we ate as much as we could.
On this late August morning at 7:30 am, we started our day with another glorious Asturian sunrise, below. It made the pavement walking on the TI-3 for the one kilometer more enjoyable. The road took us through El Fresno and El Espín.
The Camino leaves the TI-3 at the exit to El Espín, and goes left onto a paved secondary road to the south. In a few meters, you will encounter a sign for a brand-new donativo albergue in El Espín, the Casa Pascual (+34 606 24 20 97) after 1.5 kilometers from Campiello. It is only a few meters off-Camino to the south. A few meters later, you leave the road for lovely quiet unpaved lanes for the remaining 1.2 kilometers into Borres.
Just before arriving in the town of Borres, the Way immediately starts its almost 640 meter (2100 foot) climb. Here is Borres, in the photo below, as you approach, with the early morning light on it.
There is a municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Borres here, off Camino to the north, a very basic 21-bed accommodation where you must retrieve the keys at the town bar, El Barín, right along the Camino in the center of town.
There is the private Albergue La Montera, a few steps off Camino to the north, just before the bar. The place looks very lovely, if you click on the link.
Come to a T-intersection after the town bar, turn right and in a few meters cross over the AS-219, continuing to climb steeply. A few meters onward, come to a vending area at about 3.2 kilometers from Campiello. This is your last chance to obtain anything until Berducedo, 24 kilometers away!
After the vending area in Borres, the Camino leaves the pavement to walk another full kilometer on a path, where one comes very quickly upon the decision-making place, at 4.25 kilometers. To the right, (upper waymark in the photo below) is the Hospitales Route, and to the left, (lower waymark) is the longer, but easier La Pola Route. (Remember in Asturias, you follow the direction where the rays all come together - counter intuitive! Plus this mojón has been updated, but I am rather nostalgic...)
Since the weather was clear, we decided, of course, to take the Hospitales Route, the original pilgrimage way. I know of no one who has taken the Pola Route as their first choice.
If you come to this crossroad, and the weather is bad, please consider your choice very carefully. Apparently, when it is foggy, finding your way is next to impossible. If it is snowing, it is impossible. I hear from my readers that the waymarking is much improved, however, why would you want to take the chance?
Even though we had a mostly clear day, the wind was ferocious up there, coming off the sea, I suppose. It was very difficult going for a long while in the never-ceasing wind. I would not have wanted to be caught in the weather in this very exposed place.
The Country Path Just Beyond BorresAfter choosing the Hospitales Route, we continued on its strenuous climb on dirt lanes and paths. My chest constriction and post-nasal drip were better than on day four, since I refrained from drinking wine the prior night and I got a good, solid, eight hours of sleep. I did cough some through the night, but my energy levels felt high in anticipation of the day.
While we ran into the Three Amigos, early on, I decided that I was going to give up any need to push myself too hard on this day. (see day four if you're interested in my not-so gracious race and the Three Amigos).
Cornfields Along the Way Towards La MorteraWithin about 2.5 kilometers from Borres, 5.5 kilometers into the day, the hamlet of La Mortera comes into view, below. As I viewed the chapel from afar, I witnessed a group of five pilgrims, rushing right by the chapel, on the race to the top, or the race to the end, or to wherever. I smiled at my own tendency to race.
I thought how different it would have been for the medieval pilgrims. Most likely, at each little chapel along the way, they would have stopped and prayed, and asked for absolution from something, or maybe broke bread, or maybe stayed the night, Who knows? But they would have paid homage to what was there for them, because every chapel is a pilgrimage stop along the way.
For pilgrims in previous centuries, their journey was a test of their faith amidst incredible hardships. Perhaps we modern pilgrims have lost this purpose? Then all of a sudden I had this flash of insight, that indeed, my pilgrimage is a test of my faith; but with a difference.
I thought: My pilgrimage is a test of my faith in myself. Immediately I got an overwhelming sense of emotion, which included a strong body-reaction. I couldn't name the emotion, or determine what it meant in the moment. It was a spontaneous thought. Or was it?
The first place that my heart wanted to go, was that my pilgrimage was a test of my faith in myself and my belief that God is in me, guiding me on my path.
For the medieval pilgrims they paid homage to a God who was an external force. This force just whipped them around causing all kinds of travesties in their lives.
For me, it was my faith in myself to believe that God is there, God is in me, and God will provide. It was a pretty nice insight for me on my day five of the Camino Primitivo.
Once I got to the actual Capilla, after 5.8 kilometers, and shown below, I spent about 10 minutes there, absorbing the collective spirit of all the pilgrimage travelers that had come before me, for whatever reason and with whatever belief. For their aspirations and mine, I was so grateful to be part of this amazing community of souls. For better or for worse, we come together to unite as one people, one heart, one soul.
We walked on, looking back on this last small town. It was indeed, bye-bye civilization for most of the remainder of the day.
The rest of my journey will have fewer comments. The journey's story will be told mostly in the photos.
Is this Heather?
Country Lane Takes Us Higher
Sweeping Views Open to the Cantabrian Mountains
Fewer Trees as the Altitude and Exposure Increases on the Hospitales RouteBy the time we reached these sweeping views, my spirit was flying. The emotional joy I felt at being here created the necessary physical vitality to meet the demands of the journey.
From a purely physical standpoint, my shins and feet no longer hurt at all. This feeling was true even on the very steep downhills later on.
Closer to Treeline
As we neared the highest and most exposed part of the route, we had to stop and put on layers to protect against the winds that were rushing up from the valley floors below.
Toward the First Hospital High on the Hospitales Route
La Parodiella Hospital Just Ahead in the Light Green Patch
After about 3.8 kilometers from La Mortera, and two-and-a-half hours of total walking (9.6 kilometers from Campiello), we arrived at the ruins of the Hospital de Paradiella. Hospitals, in the middle centuries were often under royal protection and were staffed by Catholic orders.
The wind at this juncture was amazingly strong. I don't know if you can see the grimace on Rich's face. He was finding it difficult to stand still to hold this pose! It took me three shots to get this one right! I'd yell at him to stand still, and he could barely hear me above the wind!
Do not underestimate the exposure of this place!
There is not much left of the Hospital de Paradiella. Even though this photo looks like clear weather here, it was anything but comfortable! The trees tell the tale. All wind-blown and gnarled.
Not Much Left of the Hospital ParadiellaFood, shelter and even clothing were given to the pilgrims at the hospitals. If they were ill, care was provided.
Donations were encouraged but many poor pilgrims were in rough shape, with insufficient warm clothes and often in poor health. I can only imagine the struggle just to get from one hospital to the next under these conditions. Some of them barely made it.
While our weather was not sunny and calm, at least it wasn't foggy and raining. We did have to exert considerable effort as we struggled through the wind in this area. It truly was relentless!
Why the Catholic order chose to build at this spot seemed crazy to me at first. But perhaps because of the exposed conditions here, was precisely why they built here. It was an area where the most need existed.
We hurried on to find a more sheltered spot. As you can see from the following photos, there are frequent waymarks and yellow arrows on posts. The visibility was pretty good on this day, but frequently, it is not.
At the Top of One Hill, Day Five, Camino Primitivo
Upwards to the Next HillThis photo captures the approximate highest point on day five, Camino Primitivo, of over 1200 meters (about 3900 feet) at about 11.4 kilometers.
More Sweeping Views
Forty-five minutes and 2.2 kilometers later (11.8 kilometers total), we arrived at the ruins of the second hospital. It is the most well-preserved of the three.
The walk continued to be a struggle due to the relentless wind. My husband said it was like taking one step forward and two steps sideways!
Shelter in the Mountains
Our 11:00 a.m. Lunch StopThe views from up here are absolutely phenomenal. Unfortunately, we couldn't eat lunch and look out over the view, because the wind was way too strong to sit comfortably out in the open. I can just imagine the pilgrims of yore, huddling together in these small shelters, shivering with fever, sipping on soup and trying to get warm by a small fire.
My day five on the Camino Primitivo was so much easier than what these determined medieval pilgrimage travelers had to go through. I was grateful for albergues (in valleys!), Gortex, lightweight packs, sturdy shoes, warm high-tech layers and the ability to afford a pack full of food.
Large Courtyard at the Hospital de Fonfaraón
The Descent Toward the Hospital ValparaisoWe encountered this lovely little flower on day five of our Camino Primitivo. This bright little flower grew close to the ground because of the harshness of the weather. However, it is a bulb-grower whose flower comes first, in August, then the leaves come later. It is called Colchicum Montanum or August Crocus, in English and Merendera Montana in Spanish.
Merendera Montana ~ Bright Spot on the Hospitales RouteThe third hospital, the Hospital de Valparaiso is so ruined, that without the signpost, one could very easily walk right on by it. We arrived here, 1.5 kilometers later (13.3 kilometers total) and about 20 minutes after our lunch. The descent on the leeward side went pretty quickly!
Hospital de ValparaisoEven though the weather looks threatening, it never did rain the entire day five on the Camino Primitivo. We were very lucky!
The Open High Plateau
The Original Way runs along the "top" for glorious views all around. Then all of the sudden, it drops and joins the AS-219 briefly at a high pass called the Alto de la Marta, at 1105 meters (not pictured but signposted on the road). When you reach this point, 1.9 km later (15.2 kilometers total), you are more than half way through your day, and getting close to the Puerto del Palo.
The Way to Alto de la MartaYou must then climb back up another 100 meters (328 feet) and over the second high point of the day, then descend back down to the Puerto del Palo, where the two routes, the Hospitales and the Pola converge at the AS-14. I don't show the highway at this convergence, but it is a place that is quite obvious, as you come off the upper elevation. You see the road to the side of the Camino and a power line that you will follow downward.
It is 2.7 kilometers from the Alto de la Marta pass along the road to the Puerto del Palo convergence with the AS-14, and a total of 17.9 kilometers, and almost 14 kilometers of exposed mountain walking.
There is a small hut at the Puerto del Palo, called the Refugio del Puerto del Palo, which I placed on our Google map above. However, it is a tiny structure, made of concrete that should be used in emergencies only!
The power line is visible on the left, and the AS-14 is visible below, in the photo. The way is very, very steep here, and you can see that I am essentially side stepping it, as I use my poles to help me brake.
The view of the valley below is astounding, despite the power poles. You can even faintly see Montefurado on the lower ridge by the power poles.
On day five of the Camino Primitivo, it continues to follow the power line into Montefurado. You can see the hamlet, off in the distance, on the ridge top.
The steep descent from Puerto del Palo to Montefurado is only 1.7 kilometers (19.6 total kilometers for the day) but it feels longer, due to the extra time and care needed.
When we reached this signpost, just before Montefurado, we were happy to see that Lago was only four kilometers, and Berducedo another three, for only about seven kilometers and very little elevation change left to go!
First Sign of the End Within Reach
Montefurado - A Step Back in TimeThe small chapel at Montefurado gave me a small respite while I breathed a quick prayer of gratitude as I stopped and enjoyed the view.
Path Through Montefurado
Once you enter Montefurado, you essentially join the banks of the AS-14, all the way into Lago, then on it to Berducedo on day five of the Camino Primitivo.
After climbing one more 100 meter hill, the path comes out at Lago, 3.8 kilometers later (23.3 kilometers total), and walks by the church, below. It is a nice shady place, with benches to sit and a grotto to meditate by. We stumbled on James, a Camino family member, and interrupted his respite here.
Iglesia de Santa María de LagoWe all joined together to walk up the hill and into Lago.
Walking Into LagoWhen we walked here, there was an open bar in Lago at the edge of town, where we joined friends for a nice break. Sadly, it is no longer open! There is now, truly nothing from Borres to Berducedo.
After another quick 3.7 kilometers along the AS-14, we arrived one hour later, around 3:15 at Berducedo on day five of our Camino Primitivo, after 27 long kilometers. The Camino walks right by the first accommodation, the municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Berducedo, with 12 places and a kitchen.
We chose the Bar Casa Marques, a few steps farther along in town, below, over the municipal albergue which looked barely tolerable to my spoiled eyes. They have an albergue and also private rooms if desired.
Hostal Casa MarquesThere are a total of three albergues in Berducedo, all essentially right along the Camino. The remaining one is the Albergue Camino Primitivo. There is also the Casa Uria Berducedo a two bedroom home for up to six, and finally, the Casa de Aldea Araceli, a manor home, both just south of town and west of the AS-14. Check our map above for their locations.
While cleaning up in the hotel, I heard cow bells ringing. I went to the window to have a look, and as I suspected, a farmer was driving his cows home, through town.
Cattle Drive Thru Town - Seen From Our Hotel WindowThe family gathered around a large table in the Bar Casa Marques for dinner. The pork chops, french fries and eggs were to die for! Most likely I could have eaten rubber and been happy that night.
Combinado Plate at the Bar Casa MarquesReflections
My day five on the Camino Primitivo would turn out to be the best day of my pilgrimage. I was overwhelmed with joy and energy for most of the day. I never ran out of stamina. The walking was arduous, the wind ferocious for long, long stretches and it was a very lengthy day.
For all this effort, you will be rewarded by the scenery, awed by the intentions of pilgrims past, present and future, find emotional healing and have your own physical vitality super-charged.
Is is any wonder that I had an epiphany on this day? If my pilgrimage was to be a test of my faith in myself, and my soul, I realized that I could contemplate on this thought all that day ~ the entire pilgrimage ~ perhaps all my life. What does this look like for me? What does it mean for me, right now, in this moment?
What day five of the Camino Primitivo did for me was to confirm that I was up for the task. I was ready. If I only knew what this would all mean.
Salutation
May your own pilgrimage travels be filled with personal insights as you enjoy your own day five on the Camino Primitivo, via the Hospitales Route! May you be graced with sunny and calm weather. May you also be filled with physical energy and unbounded joy! May you be infused with the power of the history that is before you! It is all there for you if you are willing to receive! Buen Camino!
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