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Day Four on the Camino Primitivo ~ La Espina to Campiello, 24 Kilometers (14.9 Miles)
Day four on the Camino Primitivo was to test my strength, pride and perseverance. I became involved in a not-so-gracious race ~ but against whom?
“The geographical pilgrimage is the symbolic acting out an inner journey. The inner journey is the interpolation of the meanings and signs of the outer pilgrimage. One can have one without the other. It is best to have both.” ~ Thomas Merton, Mystics and Zen Masters
Day Four, Camino Primitivo Maps and Stats
Here are the GPS tracks for our day four on the Camino Primitivo. I have included services, like accommodations, grocery stores and cafés on the map to aid you in your planning. It is entirely interactive, so open, pinch, zoom, etc.
Note the optional, but almost equal route in orange, to the ruined, Romanesque Monastery of Santa María la Real de Obona, also described farther below.
Also note that the final destination for the day shows the Hotel Albergue Casa Herminia, which is in Campiello. I am not sure why Google maps doesn't show the name of the town. There are actually two private albergues (both with private rooms too) in Campiello, if you end your day there. The other is the Casa Ricardo.
Many pilgrims continue onward three more kilometers to Borres. There is one accommodation along the way in El Espín, a donativo, and two albergues in Borres, a private and the municipal, see the map below.
Next is the elevation profile for day four on the Camino Primitivo. From La Espina, there are two short climbs, then some little ups and downs, followed by a short descent into Tineo. Then from Tineo, a healthy climb of 240 meters (800 feet) that you will notice!
Once again, after a long climb, there is an easy, long downhill into Campiello, of about the same meters that you just gained. What else would you expect from the Primitivo?
The Journey ~ Day Four on the Camino Primitivo
The morning walk started out sunny and cool. Both my husband, Rich and I were suffering from post-nasal drip now. I thought that my condition, that I noticed first the prior day, was due to stress, but since Rich had it too, it seemed that we may have picked it up somewhere in our travels.
My voice was beginning to sound husky, as when I get PND, the virus almost always progresses to laryngitis. I tried to keep from focusing on it as we set out. My belly was happy, for sure, as the sweet hospitalero made us tostada and café con leche at the Albergue, El Texú for a donation.
Shortly after joining the N-634, on the west end of La Espina, stay to the left at a Y-intersection. A few meters later, pass the Coviran supermarket on the left, and the Albergue de Peregrinos El Cruce in the same building. After about 1/4 kilometer along the N-634, arrive at a large roundabout, and stay to the right side to pick up a dirt tractor lane, following the path of the roundabout to the north. This lane turns into a path on the other side, heading westward through the fields, essentially paralleling the AS-216.
At the roundabout is the beginning of your first climb of the day, over the next 1.75 kilometers. After about 600 meters from the roundabout, arrive at a T-intersection with a paved road entering the town of La Pareda. Turn right and within a few meters, come to the lovely little Capilla del Cristo de los Afligidos, below. I said a prayer of gratitude at the chapel, (as I intended to do at each and every chapel I passed), as I captured the moment. It is a quaint little fifteenth century chapel with a Camino waymark as well. The chapel has always been closed when I have passed by.
Turn right and up the hill, after the chapel, walk straight through a crossroads, when about 80 meters later, come to this most interesting rounded building, below.
Stay straight onward at the rounded building, and within a few steps arrive at the Albergue Minero, (+34 607 314 746), where the mother/daughter hosts get great reviews from pilgrims!
The shell embellishments on this building, below, require a pause for admiration! Seeing heart-felt phenomena like this always lifts my spirit! I smiled deeply as I admired their work.
Albergue Minero Shell EmbellishmentsAfter the albergue, turn left at the next intersection and one-quarter mile later you pass by a fountain, the Fuente de Reconco, at the west end of town. 130 meters after the fountain, fabulous views open up of the mountains on your left shoulder, below.
After passing a large dairy farm, the Way turns left onto a dirt tractor lane. The AS-216 can be seen down the hill to the south, but fortunately we stayed on these lovely dirt tracks, all the way to Bedures, for about another 1.3 kilometers.
You are still climbing from La Espina, and after about 2.3 kilometers, you will reach the top, see the photo below. A horse was looking expectantly at us as we passed by.
Then it is all downhill to the next town of Bedures, meeting the pavement after 3.0 kilometers and turning to the right at this hórreo, below. Pass another water fountain after a few meters into town.
After leaving town, about 150 meters beyond the water fountain, pass a wonderful old mill, the Molino de Bedures, with a small waterfall.
Continue on the pavement for a bit more than 100 meters and turn right at the first intersection, and immediately stay to the left at the Y-intersection and onto another farmer’s lane. Walk this lane for not quite 300 meters and come to the outskirts of El Pedregal when you join the pavement. This is where you will find a wonderful little Pilgrim’s Rest Area or Descanso de Peregrinos, after 3.85 kilometers, below, with a vending machine for snacks and beverages. You may want to take advantage of this stop, as there is nowhere to get food until San Roque, 6.5 kilometers away or Tineo, after 7.5 kilometers.
200 meters later, at a T-intersection, turn to the right onto the AS-216 and into the center of town. El Pedregal is another quaint place and the town church, the Iglesia de los Santos Xustu y Pastor, immediately comes into view, below. At the church, the long downhill ends and you have accomplished 4.25 kilometers into your day four on the Camino Primitivo. The church is open for pilgrim’s to pause, pray and get a stamp.
Street View of Church on Main Street of El PedregalOnward, from the church, 200 meters later, turn right onto a quiet paved lane, where there is a historical cross, the Cruceru d' El Pedregal. Follow this paved lane for about 250 meters, until it turns into a farmer’s lane, below. For the next 5.5 kilometers, you will be on dirt lanes through the marvelous countryside. The Way is well-waymarked.
Turn Onto Farmer’s Lane after Pedregal CrossThe views over the countryside are a brilliant green.
Pass another historic flour mill sign and by 1.3 kilometers onward from El Pedregal, finish the second climb for the day after about 5.72 kilometers total. At the crest of the hill, at the intersection, stay to the left. It will be mostly downhill from here to Tineo. Going onward, the Way is often shady and cool, see below. About 400 meters from the top, come to a T-intersection, and turn right.
The Shady LaneAbout 2.0 kilometers later, you will take a hard right turn, at the bottom of a long downhill, to continue on another lane.
Hard Right Turn Onto Another LaneAfter the turn, climb another small hill, and on the downside, after about another kilometer, come to this lovely picnic area, below, after approximately 9.0 kilometers into the day.
Serene Picnic Area, Day Four, Camino Primitivo300 meters after the picnic area, at the first intersection, take a right turn. Walk through the final forested section, pictured next, after which you will see buildings ahead and the dirt lane turns to pavement.
Final Forest Section Before TineoAfter passing sports fields, with high fences on your left, the Way joins a brick roadway, bending to the right in the front of the Bar, La Casina de San Roque, below, after 10.3 kilometers from La Espina.
It was 10:00 a.m. and the bar was open. It looked like a great rest stop with picnic tables and a lovely park all around. We decided to keep going on, and try to get through most of Tineo, the next large town just ahead, before stopping. We wanted to get to a more halfway point, about 12 kilometers into our day four on the Camino Primitivo.
A little chapel, called the Capilla de San Roque, was just beyond the bar, below. To see the front of the chapel, you must turn around and look behind you. This restaurant and chapel would have been a lovely place for a rest and a bite.
It is important to find the Capilla de San Roque if your intent is to stay at the 24-bed municipal Albergue de Peregrinos Mater Christi, (+34 698 822 152) on the north side of town. It is most efficient to leave the Camino and take the first left after the chapel onto the Carretera de San Roque, walk down the hill for approximately 600 meters, turning left onto the Calle Cabezas de San Juan. The albergue is on your left after about another 100 meters. Tineo has become a pinch point, but fortunately there are now many more choices of accommodation. Because of this, we were happy to be walking through.
Otherwise, cross the paved road and continue straight onward along the lamppost-lined brick road, below.
Down the Paseo de Los Frailes Into TineoThis quaint and walled road you see is the Paseo de Los Frailes, or the TI-1. It is incredibly scenic, looking out over the valley as it goes toward Tineo, over the next 1.1 kilometers. I didn't even mind going back to the pavement, with this beautiful distraction. We followed this road as it passes the photogenic pilgrim sundial, below, about 200 meters farther along. Yes, Rich volunteered to take a photo of me too! Right after the Monumento al Peregrino (Monument to the Pilgrim), there are benches to rest and yet another water fountain.
Continue the strong descent on the brick roadway, even more steeply as you get closer to the center of town. The Paseo de Los Frailes becomes the Camino San Roque. Pass a raised hórreo, with a water fountain at its base; the perfect place for a fill up if you are not stopping in town, pictured next. You may notice a wooden sign by the fountain that says, “Ruta Sierra de Tineo” or the Tineo Mountain Route. How appropriate!
Raised Hórreo and Fountain, TineoJust beyond the fountain, we passed an open bar, La Panera de Vero, on the downhill, but didn't stop. Surely there was another one on the other side of town? Tineo is not a small place, I reasoned.
A few meters later, is the 14th century church, the Iglesia de San Pedro. There is a Sacred Art Museum within the church, the Museo de Arte Sacro de Tineo, if you have time and interest. Click on the link for more information and opening hours.
Apparently Tineo was a famous pilgrim stop, and I would have loved to explore the historical sites here. We just did not have sufficient time. The town is on a steep hillside, so a walk into town requires a strenuous walk up and out!
Across the street from the church is where the Camino turns to the right, at the bakery (panadería) on the opposite corner, below.
Right Turn at the BakeryOne block later turn to the right again onto the Calle la Fuente, and your downhill has now ended! It is up and out of Tineo from here, on the long climb of the day that lasts almost five kilometers and gains almost 300 meters in elevation.
The photo below shows the start of the climb from Tineo. As it turns out, there is not another bar, before this abrupt turn to the north, heading up and away from the center of town! No café con leche boost for this girl, since I was too lazy to turn around and go back the 200 meters to the bar, once I realized what was happening. And walking down into town was an effort and too far off-Camino!
Begin Long Climb, Up/Out of TineoContinuing on the Camino after Tineo, you are entering God's country, and there is not a lot of infrastructure. The Camino lesson is grab what you can, when you can!
If Tineo is your destination for the day, there are a lot of services and accommodation here, in addition to the municipal albergue. There is the 54-bed Albergue Palacio de Merás within the 16th century, luxurious complex of the Hotel Palacio de Merás in the center of town. This historic palace also houses a museum with a private antique collection from a local citizen, Valentín Alba. The Apartamentos La Panerona (two locations), the Pension La Posada, the 16-bed Albergue de Peregrinos La Plaza (+34 684 61 45 17), the Bar Pensión El Corono (+34 985 80 01 56) and the Apartamentos los Balcones are all also in the center of town. Click on the links for their exact location.
We have stayed in the “Balcony” Apartments, and while there is no real view to speak of, the unit was clean and comfortable and the best is that you have a full kitchen with a washing machine if that is your desire.
Back on the Calle la Fuente, you will begin the long climb of the day out of Tineo, starting at about 11.5 kilometers into the day. I knew I was in for trouble as it climbed ever more steeply, passing several benches along the way for strategically located rest stops! However, the views over the hills and back towards Tineo are stunning! See the photo below. You can see how the town is perched on the hill.
We missed our opportunity to find a "perfectly placed bar" so we sat on one of the benches just outside of town and had a picnic lunch from our packs. I did not know how long the hill climb was going to be, and I was physically and psychologically running out of energy. I needed food! While we munched, three notable Spanish pilgrim gentlemen passed by us.
I mourned the loss of a cuppa brew. Plus, my chest was starting to feel more constricted and it definitely felt like my post-nasal drip was turning into something more worrisome.
The Calle la Fuente quickly becomes a rural road as it climbs. There are picnic tables farther up, when the street begins to flatten out, and the Fuente de San Juan - a pilgrim's fountain, hence the name of the street. There is a rest area and benches by the fountain. (not pictured). The climb from the bottom of the hill in Tineo to this fountain is only about 600 meters, but it felt longer to me.
About 130 meters after the fountain, stay right at the next intersection. About 250 meters more, the Camino de Santiago turns to the left, off the Calle la Fuente, leaving the pavement for a nice path, below, after about 12.5 kilometers total and will remain off-pavement for the next 4.5 kilometers.
Leave Pavement for Path, 12.5 KmAnother 300 meters or so, along the path the Mirador de Letizia is reached, a lovely look-out over the valley and over Tineo, below. This mirador is after 12.8 kilometers, but is not yet the top! If I had known, I would have pushed a little farther before stopping for lunch to enjoy the fantastic view across the valley, from these two resting spots.
My Not-So Gracious Race
As we walked by the pilgrim's fountain, the same three Spanish gentlemen, who we were soon to coin, "the three amigos," were having a bite. When they saw us coming, they hurriedly packed up and started following us. Down the road is Borres, formerly a real Camino pinch-point, and many pilgrims we had spoken to were interested in making it there by the end of the day. Borres is three kilometers farther than our goal of Campiello. Making it to Borres would shorten the long day on the Hospitales Route the following day.
The municipal albergue in Borres has only 18 beds, and it gets mixed reviews. If you arrive and there are no beds, at the time of this story, you would have had to return to Campiello. We did not want to gamble on it. (Fortunately now there are many more options, see below.) I tell you this information, because it seemed to us like the three amigos (and everyone else, for that matter) were on a race on this day, for beds in Borres. Oh well! We were not racing. We were going to stay in Campiello.
Rich was having music player issues and we stopped as he fiddled with his headphones and cell phone. Our delay allowed the three amigos to happily jaunt by us for the second time. Their pace did not seem out of the ordinary to me as I smiled at them and wished them a "Buen Camino."
Then, the Camino started to climb much more steeply on its double track. Even though the three amigos had gotten ahead quite a way, our faster pace allowed us to catch up to them rather quickly. I noted that they were carrying very heavy packs. As we neared to pass them, they started to speed up. They must have heard the clacking of our poles approaching.
Rich and I were both listening to music, to help with the climb. I had on Simple Minds, with a heavy, techno-beat. I eased off my pace, thinking they would eventually tire and let us pass. The exact opposite happened. Not only did they start to speed up more, but they were not yielding the right of way to let us pass. They crowded the track.
I thought, OK, I'll let them "win." We eased off our pace. Surprisingly, they eased off their pace. We followed behind them for some time like this, on their heels. If I would attempt to speed up again, so would they as they refused to yield the right of way.
The view, immediately behind hikers in front of you, is not all that pleasing. I disliked seeing their backsides and wanted to return to the open view ahead. After several minutes of this, I thought it was getting ridiculous. I was not going to not go at my pace, if their only goal was to stay in front of us.
So, I decided that I was going to put it into my highest gear to get around them. And I did. I put my head down and booked. The hill was a real hump - very steep. It took quite an effort on my part. I am from Colorado and used to climbing mountains. It was amazing how determined they were to stay ahead of us despite my all-out effort!
They were snorting and grunting and going as fast as they possibly could with their heavy packs. The fittest of the bunch was pulling ahead of the other two. He was also trying to prove something by not waiting for his Camino partners. However, I knew the whole group could not sustain this pace. They were just working way too hard.
As I finally passed by them, I smiled to greet them, and they wouldn't even look at me! All eyes were down and forward, with an occasional glance to see where I was! They were taking it all very seriously! It was a serious race! Oh my! I was able to take a better look at the three amigos as I passed them by. The one gentleman looked like he was actually in his mid-70's! The other two, maybe in their 60's, about 5-10 years older than us. I didn't know whether to be impressed or amused! Such fierce competition at that age! Wow! It was totally unexpected.
After we overtook the three amigos, and they snubbed me, I didn't look back. I kept the fast pace going until we came to the top of the climb that seemed to go on forever. The techno-rock was my driver. It was always good to get to the top. I was surprised at my stamina. I could dig deeply, if I had the will to do it. We finally reached the trail bifurcation after about 16 kilometers, and after kilometers of continuous strenuous climbing!
The forest had soon abated and fantastic views appeared (see farther below). The top is known as the Alto de Guardia. When I finally looked back, the three amigos were nowhere to be seen. Apparently, without us in the picture they couldn't sustain the pace we were going.
After my adrenaline abated, I worried that maybe I had given the "old" one a heart attack! I started to feel badly about what I had done. What if I had to share a dormitory with them later? How would that feel? I processed and reflected on this for most of the rest of day four on my Camino Primitivo (see reflections, further down). At least I had something else on which to focus other than my shins and feet!
Now, many years later when I look back, of course, I am embarrassed. Plus, while I got this section “over with” quickly, I missed perhaps what was the most enjoyable section of the trail. I never even took photos the first time through; so unlike me! I will now describe this section in more detail, so you won’t miss it!
The Mindful Climb
As you can see in the next four photos, this section of the trail is high-walled a lot of the time, is mostly shaded, and even may have remnants of an ancient road. It can be an immensely enjoyable walk if you slow down and breathe in the ambiance of it all like I now do.
High-Walled Section of TrailAfter 13.7 kilometers total, stay straight and upward at this intersection, below.
Stay Straight and Upward at IntersectionLook at how amazingly quaint these walled sections are! And the fabulous views over the valley continue.
The Climb Continues
When walking more mindfully, I loved this climb! I was astounded at the difference in my mental status and how much more enjoyable it all was. We were passed by a group of cyclists and they stopped for a break at a crossroads and a flat area, below. After a brief chat, we turned left here as indicated.
Left Turn Here at CrossroadAfter a bit more than 100 meters, the Camino turns to the right and finishes the final few meters to the top. Of course, the cyclists passed us along the way!
Final Meters to the TopAnd then at the top, at the Alto de Guardia, we had the Camino to ourselves, once again. The vistas all around were fabulous, below.
We had been walking on nice country lanes for a full 4.5 kilometers! From the high point after 16 kilometers into the day, there is an alternative, sign-posted turn-off, to Obona and the historic, ruined Monastery of Santa María la Real de Obona. This alternative route is in orange on my maps above and goes to the right at the bifurcation, see photo, below. According to the information on the sign, in 1222, King Alfonso IX made a stop at the monastery mandatory for all Jacobean pilgrims! Too bad this is not the standard way!
The Obona Decision PointIf you were planning to go to the monastery anyway, this alternative way is 3.3 kilometers to the Monastery, through the town of Obona and 380 meters onward, where it rejoins the standard, blue route. On the standard route, it is exactly the same distance, about 3.3 kilometers from the Alto de Guardia to the turn-off to the monastery, and a total of 720 meters more round trip to the monastery and back to the main route. All in all, if you want to visit the monastery, the standard route is about 360 meters longer in total. A bonus to going the alternative route is that you can stop at the cafe in Obona, if you would like, after a total of about 18.6 kilometers, if it is open. There are no accommodations here.
The Camino Obona ~ The Obona Alternative
The route to the right, from the decision point, is all downhill, and a steep one at that. Here is the elevation profile, below. At the altitude low, after the monastery, and after about 3.4 kilometers, is the short 200 meter climb back up to the main Camino, for a total distance of about 3.7 kilometers.
Elevation Profile, Camino de Obona, Day Four, Camino PrimitivoUnfortunately there are no arrows or waymarks along this alternative; pay close attention to the directions below!
The way along the lane pictured above continues for not quite one kilometer, below.
Walk for One Kilometer on High LaneAfter the one kilometer, arrive at a crossroads, below. Stay straight through here.
Stay Straight at CrossroadsNot even 100 meters later, another rougher lane, veers off to the left. Take it.
Veer Left Onto Rough Farmer’s LaneThis lane leads you into a short forested area. About 1/2 kilometer later, when the forest opens, you will see views of Obona ahead, and the monastery down in the valley below, see photo below.
First Glimpse of Obona and the MonasteryAfter the farmer’s lane meanders through a farm, at about 1.7 kilometers on the alternative, clear views of town open up. The glory of this alternative route is how long you can see the monastery in the valley below, before you actually arrive.
As you descend into town, you will be able to see the town bar below on your left, not pictured. It was very deserted-looking in the middle of the day, so I wouldn’t count on it being open.
When you come to a Y-intersection in the center of town, after about 2.45 kilometers on the alternative, stay to the left. Essentially, as long as you are descending, you can’t go wrong with the direction of travel.
About 200 meters later, come to an intersection, staying straight, where only a few meters later, another crossroad will take you across the AS-350, the main road through town, below. There is a brown sign for the monastery at this intersection. If you want to try the bar, (or request the keys to the monastery church), turn left here and you will find it about 300 meters down the road.
Cross the AS-350, Main Road Through ObonaOtherwise, follow this narrow paved road westward towards the monastery for 1/4 kilometer, when it takes a hairpin turn, now heading eastward. The monastery is in clear view 350 meters ahead.
The Monastery in View AheadArrive at the 18th century Monasterio de Santa María la Real de Obona after 3.3 kilometers on the alternative.
What visually remains of the monastery is mostly of the 18th century, however the foundations on this spot are much earlier, from the 9th century. Only the standing Romanesque church is older than the 18th century, built in the 12th century. It is quite sad, the state of ruin it is in, but you can still feel the energy of the place if you take the time to pause during a visit.
It may be possible to ask for the keys at the town bar, to see inside the church. We did not know this, so we just admired it from the outside as we took a long lunch break.
From the monastery, turn to the right, as you can see in the photo above and onto a farmer’s lane, pictured below.
The Farmer's Lane After the MonasteryThe lane drops a bit more in elevation over about 100 meters, before a short 260 meter climb, gaining 35 meters in altitude, back up to the standard route.
Back On the Standard Route at the Bifurcation
From the decision point, the Camino climbs for yet another 300 meters, before reaching the ultimate top of day four on the Camino Primitivo. The views open wide and you can see Obona in the valley below to your right, photo below. If you look closely, you may even be able to make out the monastery, in the valley below the town.
One kilometer after the turn, and after about 17 kilometers into the day, the nice dirt track comes to a T-intersection with a grooved road and you will turn left, heading down the very steep hill, below.
Join a Grooved, Concrete Country RoadAnother 1/2 kilometer on this road and the Camino joins the AS-350 at another T- intersection and turns right. It now follows the road along a casual pilgrim’s footpath to the left (south) of the roadway.
After walking along the AS-350 for about 600 meters, it veers to the left, back into the woods once again, below.
Leave the AS-350 Highway for Forest TrackYou will stay on this wonderful wooded track for the next 2.7 kilometers. The deeply shaded track through the forest was such a wonderful reprieve from the hot sun, below. But be careful of your footing, especially if it is wet, because this track is really rocky and steep.
Within about one kilometer of joining the forest track, after about 19.4 kilometers total, is where you can again choose between staying on the Camino, to the left, or if you have changed your mind and want to go to the Monastery of Santa María la Real de Obona, stay to the right. From this turnoff, it is only a 720 meter round-trip diversion, but downhill (uphill on the way back!) if you care to visit the historic monastery. It is definitely worth the extra steps and about 20 minutes of your time! Below is a photo of the concrete waymark, with your choices.
And here is one last look at this serene place.
Going forward, the shaded way on dirt lanes lasts for about 1.5 kilometers more, when you come out of the forest and see the buildings ahead of the next town of Villaluz. At the end of the track, you turn left into a park and a picnic area on your right, coming out at a historic washing area and fountain, the Lavadero y Fuente de Villaluz, shown below. Turn left after this historic site, with the tiny Ermita del Cristo del Socorro en Villaluz across the road, also seen in the photo on the right hand side.
Lavadero, Fuente de Villaluz (Left) and Ermita (Right)150 meters later, come to a T-intersection with the TI-3 and turn right. You will continue to walk on this road for 2.6 long, grueling kilometers up and down on hot pavement, with a final climb into Campiello.
While writing this article, I easily remembered how I felt in this moment. I could feel how hot the long climb on the pavement really was! It was not pleasant at the end of our day. I had also voice journalled how badly my feet were killing me on the hot pavement in this final stretch.
After walking through Villaluz, the next town up is Vega del Rey, below.
Along the TI-3 Through Vega del ReyNext is the town of Berrugoso. And next, pass a sign for “Las Tiendas,” the Stores. And after this area, at a large bend in the road, the final climb begins. It felt like forever, but it was only 650 meters. Until finally, the town sign of Campiello appears, below. Is it any wonder, we stopped, breathed and took a photo, below, when we finally came upon the sign for Campiello?
Campiello Ahead at Last ~ End of Day Four, Camino PrimitivoThe first bar we came to, the Bar Ricardo, we stopped for food and a beer at 2:00 p.m. We had arrived in time before the siesta closure. After about 20 minutes of enjoying our refreshments, along came the three amigos! Whew! They were alright. I smiled and nodded my head to them as they walked on by.
Casa Ricardo at the Entrance to CampielloThen I found out that the Casa Ricardo (+34 984 24 02 24), doesn't close for siesta.
Not only did the bar not close, but there was a well-stocked grocery store and a tastefully renovated, private albergue that didn't close either. I thought I had died and gone to pilgrimage traveler heaven! You can find Ricardo or someone at the bar to secure your space if you haven’t already.
Ricardo was so proud, as he, himself, gave us a tour of the facility. In almost perfect English, he explained that he had everything custom built, preserving the historical flavor of all the buildings. This was in 2015 when the place was brand new and had just opened! It was fun getting the royal treatment by the proprietor himself!
The facilities are wonderful, with a modern kitchen. We cooked dinner, with the direction of the Camino mother and about eight of us sat down here for a shared meal. For 30 Euros, we could have stayed in the dormitory (15 each), which was truly lovely. For just 15 Euro more, we chose the private room with its own bathroom. It was a delight. I highly recommend the Casa Ricardo. It was a surprise and welcome respite before the difficult day five which lay ahead.
Right beside the Casa Ricardo is the Albergue and Restaurant Casa Herminia. They serve giant cups of café con leche which we took advantage of the next morning with breakfast! They also have a restaurant, a store, an albergue and private rooms.
Remember that the donativo albergue, Casa Pascual (+34 606 24 20 97), which gets rave reviews, is 1.5 kilometers down the road in El Espín, the 21-bed municipal Albergue de Peregrinos Santa María and the 10-bed (and one private room), private Albergue La Montera are both three more kilometers down the road in Borres.
We have stayed in the Albergue La Montera and it was new, clean and comfortable. The proprietress, Isabel, who was having a rough time with her own health the day we arrived, turned out to be quite helpful and friendly soon after. A kind smile sure goes a long way!
Reflections
Fortunately, I kept a voice journal from my Camino experience, so my reflections truly were from day four of my Camino Primitivo, not months later when I am writing!
Most certainly, upon reflection, I did have an egoistic need to prove that I was faster and younger and stronger than the three amigos. My recorded words actually say, "I wanted to allow them (the three amigos) to sit back and relax and be old men. I did not want to be doing CPR on this guy (the 70+ amigo). This guy was really pushing, because I was humping it! I think I am a really strong climber. Very interesting. This is part of my motivation, I guess, or it was part of my lie to myself."
Yes, I certainly did want to get around them. I did not enjoy the view that was in front of me. Yes, I was going at a faster pace than they were. Yes, I could have yielded anyway and enjoyed the moment. No, it didn't matter if I arrived at Compiello at 2:00 or 3:00. Yes, it probably made a difference to the Spanish gentlemen that I was a female ~ and with gray hair at that!
Indeed, going forward we did not only have to share the road, but most likely we would have to share rooms! Had I tainted my relationship with them forever?
I journaled; "All I wanted was to just get around them. And I actually think that some of it had to do with proving to myself that I was doing well, despite the exercise-induced asthma (from my virus-caused post-nasal drip). Plus, I hated this day ~ long, steep hill climbs, then down, down, down, pavement, pavement, pavement."
Indeed, for most of the afternoon I was miserable. The Primitivo was to prove to be more intense than I realized. Now that my body was acclimating, somewhat, after day four on the Camino Primitivo, I was getting sick with a virus. I was supposed to be at the top of my game. I needed to prove to myself that I was physically equipped to handle this challenge.
As it turns out, I was to suffer the same physical challenges that plague most pilgrimage travelers. I didn't have the super strong immune system. My body does have limits. However, on this day I suppose I proved that I was better than average. I needed to prove that my not-so-gracious race had made a difference to me that day.
Now, I am graciously accepting my lack of graciousness. I am human. I needed to feel strong, fast and young in the face of my own personal adversity. I needed to persevere. And so it is/was. Hindsight is 20/20 now when I look at my day four on the amazing Camino Primitivo.
What do you think? Have you had similar experiences? You may leave your feedback below!
Salutation
May your own Camino de Santiago aid you in your inner and outer journey. May you be at Peace that they are often so interconnected that you cannot tell the difference. May you merge with your experience, such as I did, through hope, adversity and yes, humanness. May your pilgrimage travels bring you new insights on your life's journey, as mine did on my day four on the Camino Primitivo.
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Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!
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Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )
Gregory BackPack - My Favorite Brand
Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!
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