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- Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campean, Day Two
Vía de la Plata, Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán, Day Two, 26.4 Kilometers (16.4 Miles)
Our day two on the Vía de la Plata, from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán was not very beautiful, necessitating a walk paralleling the A-66 highway for the first 11 kilometers to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino.
The remainder of the day through the countryside was easy, with a bit more visual interest.
“To have courage for whatever comes in life - everything lies in that.” ~ Santa Teresa de Jesús (de Ávila)
Going forward, our courage was strong on this second day, despite my personal lingering issues with my left knee. As in any pilgrimage, it was one foot in front of the other. The majestic, evergreen live oaks kept us company, as well as our company with one another, interspersed with individual silence.
Maps and Stats of Day Two on the Vía de la Plata, Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán
Here is our interactive map of this day's journey, with the few services shown along the way. At 13 kilometers, there are full services if you need them in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. Fill your packs with plenty of water for the journey as well as snacks that you hopefully bought in Salamanca. There are two tiendas in El Cubo to replenish your pack if you have run out.
If Villanueva de Campeán is your destination, there is no bar in this small town, and no tienda, so you must must stock up in El Cubo.
The municipal albergue in Villanueva de Campeán also closed with no reopen date. This leaves only two possible accommodations, the private Albergue Vía de la Plata and La Posada Real del Buen Camino. Plan accordingly if you desire to stay in this town.
There are undulating hills as you walk along the highway in the first half of this day. A long gradual rise of about 50 meters (164 feet), unnoticeable over seven kilometers, followed by a long 120 meters (400 feet) of elevation loss into Villanueva de Campeán, makes up your day.
Photo-Rich Travelogue of Day Two on the Vía de la Plata, Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán
We set off from the Albergue Casa Saso (+34 697 37 95 26) at sunrise. The morning was clear and fresh.
In this section, the path and the dirt road run together side-by-side, and create a frontage Way that parallels the A-66 highway on your right. Additionally, the locals have created these lovely concrete pillars to guide your steps.
In the above photos and below, you can see the majestic, evergreen oak trees that surrounded us. In Spanish they are known as Encinos. They bear acorns which are used primarily for pig food. They don't harvest the acorns, but let the pigs root around below them and eat them.
Our host Alberto, from the Albergue Casa Saso says that some people roast the acorns and eat them, but he thinks it's best that the pigs eat the acorns, and we eat the pigs!
Evergreen Live Oaks Line the WayToday my left knee was feeling a bit of a niggle. I had problems with it on the Camino Teresiano, the Camino that I had just finished. I self-diagnosed the condition as a patellofemoral injury, or "runner's knee" as it is commonly known. Runner's knee is an annoying pain immediately behind the kneecap.
The pain in my knee had started at around 15 kilometers on the fourth day on the way to Alba de Tormes. That night it got horribly sore. I had difficulty going up and down steps. The next day walking to Salamanca, it had been OK. The additional rest day in Salamanca helped. On our first day out of Salamanca (yesterday) it was OK, but my knee had stiffened up on that night.
Today, with just a "niggle" I was going to have to take it as it came, to see what happened. I was prepared for a plan "B" that included leaving the Camino if it became necessary. I was determined not to suffer a longer-term injury. I had nothing to prove.
At about 1.9 kilometers on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán, you come to the first overpass of the A-66, shown below. This is where you will take a diversion loop around to the west. This would be a common theme on this day, and you can see these diversions on the interactive Google map if you zoom in.
Also at the diversion is a sign announcing that the Castillo del Buen Amor is to the right and off-Camino about another 2.5 kilometers. It is a fantastic, restored 1000 year old Castle where you could stay for a mere 100 Euros/night.
Along the Way there were some random grape vines, loaded with grapes. We picked and ate some and they were quite delicious. We were to find out in the kilometers to follow that it was actually grape harvest season, in early October.
After a few more kilometers, in the distance, you will be able to see a rise in the land with a tower of sorts on the top. As you climb the rise, you will notice the second overpass of the A-66, shown below, and it is at about 4.25 kilometers into the day when you reach it.
Second Overpass of the A-66At the top of the second overpass is a wayside chapel with a rooster on its top and the radio tower across the street, both shown below.
You can tell by the gray and obscure photos that it was getting more misty and overcast as the day progressed.
Wayside Chapel at Top of Second Overpass
Cell Tower at Top of Second OverpassHere is the perfect shot of just how close the Camino is in proximity to the highway. Yet, it wasn't all that bad really. I was taking everything as it came.
At approximately 6.0 kilometers into the day on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán, the next landmark is the penitentiary shown below. You will see its tower in the distance, long before you pass it.
Penitentiary: Centro Penitenciario de TopasShortly after the penitentiary, we encountered these pillars with Roman numerals painted on them. At first I didn't understand the information. Was it a countup or a countdown to something?
At about 6.55 kilometers on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán, you come to the third diversion around an overpass. By now it was misting heavily. Even though I was worried it was going to pour, the mist felt nice.
Immediately after rounding the third diversion, another set of pillars with the Roman numeral VI appeared. Indeed, at about 7.0 kilometers into the day, this could only be a countdown to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino. Some Camino angel had provided this information to the pilgrimage traveler. It would have been very welcome information if I was doing the long 36 kilometer leg from Salamanca!
Six Kilometer Countdown to El Cubo de Tierra del VinoIn all my writings I have never used so many overpasses as landmarks, but indeed there is not much else out here to go by! At approximately 7.8 kilometers, come to a fourth overpass, shown below.
Fourth Overpass of the A-66By 10 a.m. we logged in 9 kilometers, about 1/3 of our day's journey on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán. The rain looked to be gone. After only two countdown markings on the pillars, the countdown would now cease.
Below is another monotonous long stretch along the highway, and you can now see slight changes in the terrain. There were fewer trees and more scrubby, juniper-like plants. The dirt also seemed to get redder.
Below are the three peregrinos, heading for the final rise for the day along the highway.
Slight Changes in TerrainAt approximately 10 kilometers you come to the fifth and final overpass before you finally leave the frontage Way. When you pass this final bridge, shown below, there is less than one kilometer left along the highway. Hallelujah!
Fifth and Final Overpass AheadAfter about 11 kilometers, the white estate building on a hill ahead, shown in the photo below, is where the dirt road veers off to the left from the highway and turns to pavement.
Veer Left at EstateThis paved road now follows the path of the N-630 for about 700 meters, before actually joining it and walking on it toward El Cubo de Tierra del Vino.
You follow the N-630 for 1/2 kilometer before turning left at this water tower shown below.
Turn Left at the Water TowerNext, you will turn onto the "Calle Mayor" the Main Street and the sign tells you that you are one kilometer away from El Cubo from here.
It is after about 13 kilometers into the day that you enter the outskirts of town on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán.
By the town sign, shown below, on the right of the photo is a sign for the private Albergue Turístico Torre de Sabre. To find the albergue, just follow the parallel dirt road on your right about 150 meters.
Next, turn right at these pylons, to shortcut to the street called the Calle de Ermita in front of the wall shown. Turn right and in a few meters you have arrived. It is easy to find with well-signed directions. Or locate the albergue on the interactive google map above.
Shortcut to Albergue Turística Torre de Sabre
Albergue Turística Torre de SabreThe municipal albergue in El Cubo de Tierra del Vino is now closed, along with the private Albergue F&M. Unfortunately, they did not survive the pandemic.
Only a few meters onward is the first bar, the Café Bar Hernandez, right in the center of town. We chose to stop here, at the halfway point from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán on the Vía de la Plata. They had delicious tortilla, a traditional potato and egg casserole in the shape of a pie.
The town of El Cubo, is a very tidy and neat town, but it is not as big as you might expect. Only a few meters onward from the bars, go straight on at the old town church and its cross.
From beyond the church as you are leaving town, in about 150 meters, the Camino directs you to the left. At this point, it is about 13.6 kilometers thus far into the journey from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán on the Vía de la Plata.
1/2 kilometer later, at 14 kilometers total, stay right at the Y-intersection, where you will now notice that you are walking along an old railroad track to your right. Also note, if you haven't already, the different style concrete waymark, shown below.
Straight On at Different Style WaymarkContinue following this dirt route along the railroad for 4.8 kilometers, climbing steadily all the time, and past this ancient-looking railroad crossing sign at about 17.8 kilometers, shown below. We never did cross any tracks, but stayed parallel to them.
Paralleling Railroad Track on the Vía de la Plata, Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de CampeánIn another kilometer after the sign, at 18.8 kilometers total for the day, take a sharp left, and an immediate right, following the waymarks and now walk through open fields. The skies looked stormy, below, but the weather was cooler without the bright sun and it was a perfect day for walking.
Several kilometers later at 21 kilometers total, come to the top of a bluff, shown below. You are now at the end of the long steady climb and have reached the altitude top of the day. Things still look a little barren, but there are more trees that show up on the downhill side.
Final Rise in the HorizonAs you head down the hill, the views open up nicely, and for the first time your walk actually becomes visually pleasant.
The road itself is now descending noticeably and the terrain once again becomes a bit drab.
It's All Downhill From Here into Villanueva de CampeánAs you descend toward Villanueva de Campeán, there are many fields of grapes, and the harvest was in full swing as we passed by. Below is a wagon load full of grapes!
Grape HarvestAfter about 3.5 kilometers of pleasant descending, following the waymarks northward, you come to a Y-intersection after 24.5 kilometers total, with the first tall pillar waymark, shown below. In addition to "Vía de la Plata" carved into it, there is also the town name of Villanueva de Campeán. We were certainly on the right track, and went left here.
Turn Left at the Y-Intersection by this PillarAfter about 25.5 kilometers the second pillar appeared, below, and you can now see the town ahead. The sky was clearing so that I was able to take this incredible photo. You are only about one kilometer away from Villanueva de Campeán at this point.
As we neared the town, to the right, we could see the ruined 15th century Convento de Santa María del Soto, off to the east, shown in the photo below. There is not much left of the convent to see, so we did not go out of our way. Click on the link above, to go to a video on YouTube, with lovely aerial views of the convent, to make your own decision.
If you decide to see the convent, you would turn right at this intersection, below, where you will find the town sign, on the right, by the wall, and another pillar, on the left. This pillar has Arabic writing, a vestige of the name, Camino Mozárabe, a Spanish word derived from Arabic, meaning a Christian who lived in Spain during the Moorish rule.
Entering Villanueva de CampeánAlso on the wall, as you enter town is a sign for the casa rural, La Posada Real del Buen Camino.
As we entered town, we walked by the Albergue Privado Vía de la Plata, (closes in the winter, +34 630 980 967), right along the Camino. Below is the crew, posing in front of the great looking place.
Albergue Privado Villanueva de CampeánThe town is very small and the former Bar Vía de la Plata is in the center of it, shown below. As noted above it is permanently closed! What a shame! It is here that I turned off my GPS for the day.
Across from the front of the bar is this street, the Calle Señor, below, that heads to the town church and La Posada Real del Buen Camino. The Posada is just beyond the front of the church and is not pictured. The proprietors will serve you dinner and breakfast, since there is no bar in town at this writing.
Right Turn on the Calle Señor at the BarAfter settling in, I walked over to the town church, and even though it was closed, I sat on the church steps, and stretched out my legs, giving thanks that they had held me up and didn't give me any more problems than the mild niggle in my left knee, on the Vía de la Plata, all the way from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán.
After walking with the group, I relished the bit of solitary time hanging out here at the church. My friend captured me in a photo, below. I had a fascia ball that I carried in my pack and I now used to roll my left knee and all the tendons and muscles around the kneecap. I would have to pay lots of attention to this knee if I would hope to continue onward the entire way to Santiago.
We were lucky this day that a traveling food vendor in his truck blew his horn that afternoon, announcing his arrival into town. We knew of this small town phenomenon across Spain and immediately ran out to see what he had. He was not selling bread, but cheeses and meats, and various other non-perishable items which we purchased for our packs.
We also bought some flan to have immediately to tide us over until dinner! Gotta love the Spanish flan! I have no idea how dependable this vendor service is, but he did park in the center of town, so I imagine pilgrims and townsfolk fuel his market.
In the evening, all the peregrinos gathered at the now-closed Bar Vía de la Plata. However, I must still tell this funny story:
Over dinner, we met again a retired, German biology professor from the night before, and several new Spanish faces. We had a most enjoyable communitas meal, laughing and getting to know one another.
I was asked, "Where are you from?" I answered, "The USA," then I chuckled and said, "I am a Gringo," using the Mexican slang term for Americans. Everyone smiled.
I looked across the table at the German professor, sitting directly opposite me in the photo below and I could see his mental wheels turning. Apparently Mexico is not the only country who knows the term "Gringo," because the professor blurts out, "I see! Then you are not Peregrinos, but Peregringos!"
I burst out laughing, along with all the rest of the pilgrims at the table. From then on we were known by the group as the Peregringos! An absolutely hilarious and genius invention by the German man.
Dinner at the Former Bar Vía de la PlataReflections of Day Two on the Vía de la Plata, Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán
After an enjoyable day, one without any problems, I reflected on how much I had learned over the years about the Camino and the pilgrim life. I didn't even mind the boredom of this day, however, if it had been horribly hot, I may have felt differently. But it was still early in the walk, even though this was my 7th day, after having completed the Camino Teresiano prior.
I truly believed that in accordance with St. Teresa's words, that I had learned to take things as they came. Indeed this was the essence of life, and I prayed that I would continue to be flexible, walking with a group, as I had never done before. This would be put to the test, as all beliefs eventually are.
I did promise myself that I would walk alone when needed, to keep the spirit of my pilgrimage alive, and not just have it turn into a group event.
I was amused when observing our Camino newbie friends as they did the "backpack shuffle." This is where they were continually looking for items in their packs, taking things in/out and rearranging the items frequently. My friend Nadine laughs about it now, saying that she was sure she was losing her items, but always managed to find them when she unpacked everything! Then she would lose them again when she re-packed. These are classic adjustment maneuvers for the first-time peregrino.
Salutation
May your own day on the Vía de la Plata from Urbanizatión El Chinarral to Villanueva de Campeán afford you the courage to take whatever comes. May you place one foot in front of the other, staying present to the journey and your experience of it. This journey is indeed the essence of life! Ultreia!
And the Journey Continues:
~ From Salamanca
~ On the Camino Sanabrés
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