- Home
- ~ Camino Primitivo (The Original Way)
- Day Eleven, Part Two, Melide to Arzúa
Jump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Day Eleven on the Camino Primitivo, Part Two ~ Melide to Arzúa, 13.95 Kilometers (8.67 Miles)
On this day eleven of our Camino Primitivo, part two, we joined the Camino Francés, and not only made a change in direction, but also found familiar faces. Our total mileage for the day, if you count the 14.4 kilometers from part one of day eleven, was 28.35 kilometers.
“A cloud does not know why it moves in just such a direction and at such a speed...It feels an impulsion...this is the place to go now. But the sky knows the reasons and the patterns behind all clouds, and you will know, too, when you lift yourself high enough to see beyond horizons.” ~ Richard Bach, From Jonathan Livingston Seagull
Day Eleven, Camino Primitivo, Part Two, Maps and Stats
My soul did not want to leave the Camino Primitivo upon arriving in the Praza do Convento in the center of Melide. It was 10:30 a.m., and as good pilgrims do, we carried on and soon joined the Camino Francés.
If you wish to spend the night here in Melide, there are many options from which to choose. See the interactive Google map of Melide for their location, or click here. There is the giant municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide just beyond the square, many private ones, and hotels and pensions throughout town.
You can see on the map that there are two orange alternatives, the first one just west of Melide, is 250 meters longer, but otherwise without much difference. The second orange alternative, farther west, is only 200 meters longer, but may be on quieter roads. See the descriptions, below, of these alternatives.
As you can see from the elevation profile of day eleven part two, starting in Melide, the walking is now much easier and is relatively flat, with mild elevation changes throughout the full 14 kilometers.
Camino Primitivo EBook Guide
Take a look at our Camino Primitivo eBook Guide, for you to download to your personal device for comfortable reading offline and without ads. Our eBook is packed with detailed information and photos, including a *new* bonus side trip, to the incredible and unusual Santa Eulalia de Bóveda temple, the mostly ingnored neolithic standing stones at Montouto and finally, the often-missed, but lovely alternative to the Hospitales Route, (which is gorgeous too), the route to take in the event of inclement weather, along the Río Nisón for 6.8 kilometers! Our eBook Guide is unique because we also entertain and immerse you with our story! Click here for more info OR BUY NOW.
Jump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Our Journey on Day Eleven of the Camino Primitivo ~ Part Two
We reluctantly left the center of town on the final steps of the Camino Primitivo, along the Rúa Nueva, one block after the Praza do Convento (see day eleven, part one for a photo of the plaza). After 100 meters the Way turns right (west) onto the Rúa Principal. Here we joined the Camino Francés! One takes this street through the remainder of the city, photo below.
Along the Rúa PrincipalAbout 1/4 kilometer later, pass a church (up a set of stairs to the left), the Capela do Carme, until the street ends in a dirt walkway along the right side of the church cemetery, below. You have now left the center of Melide and the walkway is now called the Camiño Santiago.
Camiño Santiago by the CemeteryYou continue along the high-walled walkway until it ends, when the Camino crosses the N547 and on the other side, joins the main road, the CP-4603.
After joining the CP-4603, pass the town sign of Santa María. After about 200 meters more, turn right onto the concrete road called Santa María. A few steps later, pass by the town cross on your left and a souvenir shop on your right.
A few steps beyond the cross is the famous and well-touristed, Iglesia de Santa María de Melide, below. It is definitely worth a look.
The interior of the chapel contains some remarkable 14th century paintings, and there is an old 8th century Roman fountain on the grounds as well.
There was a guide at the door when we entered who in rapid fire English explained the historic value of the place to any eager pilgrim ears. There were so many people here that after the intimacy of the Camino Primitivo, I just wanted to leave! I was not a very good pilgrimage traveler, adjusting to whatever came my way.
My suggestion is that you try to see this lovely little chapel either early or late in the day, or in the off-season. In early September, at 11:00 a.m. it was packed with pilgrims and many others.
After leaving the chapel, the Camino Francés gives way to a lovely, wide, off-road dirt lane, over the next kilometer, through the rural countryside generally westward and in the shadow of the N-547.
Pass an old washing well along the way not even 200 meters after the church.
After about 2.0 kilometers from the center of Melide, in front of a large farm, you will come to a decision point, shown below. You can continue to the right and along the standard route, or you can turn left onto an alternative, Camino Complementario.
First Decision PointThe alternative is about 250 meters longer than the standard route, and aside from passing by a rural hotel in 40 meters, as the sign at the decision point indicates, I really have no idea why you would want to take this route.
Both are rural walks which join up again about two kilometers later and both are waymarked. Both have similar altitude profiles. The standard route does briefly join the N-547 in Barreiro de Abaixo, 1.25 kilometers later, but it never walks onto it, but on a path beside it.
I will describe and show photos of each route next so you can make your own decision.
Jump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Camino Complementario #1 Through Penas
While this route is waymarked, none of them give a kilometer figure, but only say “Complementario” where the figure usually resides. This route is 2.1 kilometers in total and may be a bit quieter.
After turning left at the decision point, continue walking on the quiet paved lane, past the Casa da Ponte de Penas, the hotel rural, advertised at the start.
After about 400 meters, cross the Río Catasol on a small bridge, next to another small ruined bridge. When the countryside becomes a forested area, and the pavement turns to dirt, one-quarter kilometer after the river, arrive at a fork in the road, below. Stay to the right.
Right Turn at Fork in RoadContinue through the forest, until you come out at a farm in an area called Penas, with one of the longest hórreos I have ever seen, below.
Several meters past the farm buildings, return to the forest. When you see more open daylight ahead and the forest ends, photo below, about one-half kilometer later, your Complementario route is almost over.
Open Daylight AheadWalk not quite another one-half kilometer through the fields and come to this intersection with a paved road by the town sign of Parabispo, below. This is where you join the standard route.
Routes Converge in ParabispoJump to Camino Primitivo Stages
The Standard Route from the Decision Point
If you choose to stay on the standard route, the first full kilometer will be along cool forest lanes, below.
Very Cool, Forest Walk on Day Eleven, Camino Primitivo, Part TwoYou will drop down to cross the Río Catasol on these stepping stones, after 400 meters, below.
Cross the River on Stepping StonesWe were keeping a new, determined tempo to get to Santiago de Compostela more quickly. We were moving at a much faster pace on this less difficult terrain.
Around 3.0 kilometers into the day, the forest clears and you will walk through fields on a continuing unpaved lane toward the next town of Barreiro de Abaixo.
You will arrive at the N-547, 250 meters later after entering the town. You never join the highway, but stay on a path to the left for only 100 meters, photo below, before heading left onto another unpaved lane back into the forest. You can see that our day was taking a rainy turn.
Briefly Join the N-547 on a Path150 meters later arrive at an uninviting rest area, with concrete benches and an old well. And about 300 meters more, the Complementario route joins the standard route, after not quite 4.0 kilometers total, at the entrance to Parabispo, and onto a paved road, see photo farther above.
From this junction, the Camino stays on the pavement only a few meters, passing a small taverna on the right and a produce stand called El Pequeño Oasis on the left, before joining another dirt lane back into a wooded area.
Some meters after joining the dirt lane, begin a long descent and about 1/2 kilometer later, pass by a much nicer rest area, next to a small stream, below.
Rest Area Before BoenteAfter the rest area, the dirt lane soon becomes paved and you will walk into the next town of Boente, 5.2 kilometers from the center of Melide, below, by the private Albergue and Cafeteria El Aleman.
Walking Into BoenteA few steps later, is the pricey Rectoral de Boente.
Several meters later, turn right at the 4-BR casa rural, the VUT, Vivienda in Boente, shown in the photo below. If you have a group of 3-7 people, this may be an economical choice.
Turn Right Here in BoenteAfter turning right the Camino joins the N-547 a few meters later, and turns left to walk through Boente. At the junction of the N-547, there is a lovely fountain, shown below, with a cross and benches behind it, not visible in the photo. This is a nice place for a rest, if you need.
The church, the Iglesia de Santiago de Boente, after 5.7 kilometers total is just down the main road a bit more, that you can also see in the photo.
Joining the N-547 in BoenteIf you need a stop there are lots of bars along the main road, and if you are done for the day, it has the Albergue and Pension Boente and the Os Albergue Fuente Saleta.
After joining the N-547 by the Albergue Boente, and after only walking a few meters along the highway, the Way turns right just after the church, to walk north initially on a paved stone roadway, below. The roadway soon gives way to another dirt lane through the countryside that you can also see ahead in the photo.
Leaving Boente on Lane on Day Eleven, Camino Primitivo, Part TwoAfter descending about 700 meters on the lane, walk through a tunnel under the N-547, and about 200 meters more of descending, pass by another picnic rest area by the Río Boente.
After the long descent, begin a climb up on the other side, below, through the forest. This lane will eventually parallel the N-547 on its south side.
Walking Through the CountrysideAfter walking close to the N-547 on the parallel lane, at almost the top of the ascent, come to a T-intersection with a paved road. There is an overpass of the N-547 to your right, however, the Camino turns to the left onto a parallel gravel path. Within steps you will encounter another decision point after 7.2 kilometers total, see photo below.
Once again, the standard route stays straight and will take the pilgrim into the next town of A Fraga Alta. A turn to the left takes you onto another Camino Complementario of 1.33 kilometers and not quite 200 meters more than the traditional route, but along quieter roads with no services except a vending machine.
There is a bar and two accommodations on the standard route, so choose this one if you need these services.
Second Decision Point of the DayJump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Camino Complementario #2 Through Fonte Plata
On this alternative Complementario route, you will walk initially on a nice gravel lane, which dwindles down to a tractor lane, losing and then regaining a small amount of elevation, below.
Along the Tractor Lane Through the FieldsAfter about a total of 800 meters, when the lane comes to an intersection with a paved road in the town of Fonte Plata, the Camino crosses over it and picks up another lane on the other side, below.
Cross Over Pavement to Another Tractor LaneNot even 150 meters later, come to a T-intersection and turn left onto another lane at a large farm. Pass by a vending machine on the right hand side after the turn, see photo below.
Vending Machine at FarmThe Camino continues along the dirt lane until it turns to pavement and arrives in the hamlet of Pedrido, about 300 meters after the farm. It is at the T-intersection in Pedrido where the Camino Complementario re-joins the standard route, below.
Alternative Route Joins the Standard in PedridoJump to Camino Primitivo Stages
The Standard Route from the Decision Point
If you choose to take the traditional route, continue along the nice gravel lane parallel to the paved road until you arrive in the town of A Fraga Alta, a bit more than 1/2 kilometer later.
You will encounter the Bar No Caminño first, then after arriving in town, 100 meters down the road you will turn left onto another paved road at this small, private Albergue Santiago Castañeda, shown below. There is also a café bar here, if you need a food/beverage stop. At this albergue you are now 7.9 kilometers from Melide.
Albergue Santiago in A Fraga AltaSteps after the turn, above, you encounter the casa rural, La Calleja, with an apartment for 3-5 people.
After the Apartamentos La Calleja the road ambles downhill through the countryside, passing the town sign of O Pedrido and arriving at the junction with the Camino Complementario, 1/3 kilometer later, see photo farther above.
Continue down the hill after the junction and walk past the next town sign, signaling you are in O Rio. In O Rio there is a really nice picnic area in the shade by the river.
A few steps beyond the river and you will see A Casa do Rio to your left, a casa rural with rooms to rent with a shared kitchen and bathrooms.
The Camino now climbs up from the river for the next 800 meters, through the countryside first on pavement, then on wonderful dirt lanes, below.
Eventually the Camino returns to the forest and after a total of about 9.4 kilometers from Melide, comes to a T-intersection, where the Way turns to the right and where the climb tops out.
Walk down the hill, continuing through the forest, past a turnoff for the Pensión Casa Garea and the Casa Milia (+34 664 403 555), below, both in A Portela, 1/2 kilometer off-Camino to the north.
Turnoff Towards A PortelaContinue down the hill until the Camino crosses over the N-547 this time on an overpass after about 10 kilometers total. Only about 1/2 kilometer later, arrive at the first bar, the Bar Manuel, just before entering Ribadiso. This is a lively and bustling place, after several kilometers without any.
Within 300 meters, cross the old medieval bridge over the Iso River into the town of Ribadiso, below, after approximately 10.9 kilometers into the day. The long down hill run ends at this bridge.
Immediately after the bridge, are three accommodations, the 60-bed municipal Albergue de Peregrinos de Ribadiso, see below, the Pensión Ribadiso and finally the Pensión Albergue Los Caminantes.
Ribadiso Municipal Albergue on the RightOne-quarter kilometer beyond Ribadiso, come to a T-intersection and turn left. A few meters later, turn left again to follow a lane parallel to the N-547, but down and under it through a tunnel. A few steps after the tunnel, turn right onto a paved road, and walk up the hill.
A bit farther onward is the Albergue Milpés and the Albergue Miraiso, pictured below, one on each side of the street!
Albergues on Both Sides of StreetContinue on this road another 400 meters, when it finally joins the N-547. This is the final stretch to Arzúa, however, the French Way walks on a nice dirt path on the south side of the N-547, below.
When you enter this hedge-lined path you know that Arzúa is very, very close. I loved the protected feel of this path into the city. It certainly shelters you from the risk and the noise of the increased traffic, for a full 600 meters. Good job Camino engineers!
Arzúa Now Close at the Hedge-Lined PathWhen the paved sidewalks start, after 12.8 kilometers total, just beyond the Pensión-Restaurante O Retiro and in front of La Puerta de Arzúa so do the shells on the sidewalk to guide you, below.
Shells Start When the Sidewalks Start in ArzúaYou will still have a full kilometer to walk through Arzúa after the sidewalks begin, to get to the center of town; that is how large this city is! Unless, of course, you stop at one of the accommodations before the end of this stage, after 13.8 kilometers, at the Plaza del Peregrino, pictured below.
The Small Plaza del Peregrino, ArzúaJump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Accommodations in Arzúa
We stayed in the economical Pension Rúa right along the N-547 on the eastern side of town, the first place we saw! It was adequate, clean and comfortable and only a short walk to the center of town. They also run the albergue right next to it, the Albergue Don Quijote and a café bar.
As you would expect there are a gazillion places to stay in Arzúa. Here is the list of albergues, starting with the 56-bed muni, the Albergue de Peregrinos de Arzúa farther along the Camino on the west side of town. Next I will list the privates, from east to west, the Albergue Los Tres Abetos, O Albergue de Selmo, the Albergue Santiago Apóstol, the Albergue Don Quijote (+34 981 50 01 39), the Albergue Ultreia, the De Camino Albergue, the Albergue Pensión Cima do Lugar, Cruce De Caminos Arzúa, the Albergue del Peregrino, the Albergue Los Caminantes Arzúa, the Albergue San Francisco en Arzúa, the Vía Láctea Albergue en Arzúa, the Casa del Peregrino and finally the Albergue da Fonte (+34 604 00 23 80).
In addition to the Pensión Rúa where we stayed, there are many more economical private rooms, like the Pensión Domus Gallery, the Pensión Begoña, the Pensión Luis, the Pensión Boutique La Casona de Nené, the Pensión Casa Costoya, the Pension Casa Elena and the Pensión Arcano.
For even more choices of accommodations and to see the deals today in Arzúa click here.
Camino Primitivo EBook Guide
Still thinking about our downloadable, Camino Primitivo eBook Guide? Would a money-back guarantee and free updates for a full year help with your decision? Would it help if we told you that we frequently update our information as we receive it, without the need for publishers and the slow process reprinting of hard copy books, which improves our book's accuracy? Click here for more info OR BUY NOW.
Jump to Camino Primitivo Stages
Reunion With Familiar Faces
While Rich and I were resting in our hotel, he says to me, "Call Camino Mother." If you recall, Gylvia was part of our Camino family, and we fondly called her the "Camino Mother" because she has a very nurturing personality. (see day nine)
I ignored Rich and kept on working on categorizing my photos, and posting to Facebook. In about five minutes he says again, "Call Camino Mother." I'm not sure why he didn't call her, but I suppose it was because it was I who had her phone number!
So, I called Glyvia. Much to our astonishment she was in Arzúa! We had caught up to her, even though we had spent an extra day in Lugo. On her first day after Lugo she had gotten lost and after a one-hour detour grew discouraged and ended up staying in San Román (see our day ten). She had spent the second night in Melide. Today she made it to Arzúa! Her niece, Saskia had gone on and she was now a bit further on.
After our rest, we met Glyvia at the church in the center of Arzúa and wandered around to find this café. It was sunny, bright and inviting, so we walked in for a bite. I cannot remember the name of it, but we really only had small dishes and wine, not a full dinner.
Glyvia, Elle and Rich at Café on Main StreetShortly after sitting down, Mattias, another member of our Camino family, walks in. Not only had we caught up to Glyvia, we had also caught up to Mattias, who was having foot/blister trouble. He joined us for a beer. We were so very happy to see our familiar Camino family faces again!
Reflections
Perhaps my mind set put me in a more closed place when we arrived on this day eleven of our Camino Primitivo, part two. I am not exactly sure.
But I do know that we walked very quickly and with much endurance on the French Way, partly because the terrain was much, much easier and flat, partly because we were not as desirous of the company of throngs of pilgrims with the concomitant heightened tourism and partly because we were eager to arrive in Santiago de Compostela.
My attitude was also influenced by meeting up with so many pilgrims who were seemingly on a race. We had encountered several pairs of peregrinos who, when they heard us approach from behind, would speed up and try to stay ahead of us. (Ay, we did not want to repeat the episode of day four and the "Three Amigos.")
By the afternoon, we were growing sick of being polite and we just wanted to "get there." We chose to keep our pace throughout the "races." Sure enough, whenever we would come to a hill, the racers would fall back and then disappear. Whether or not it was the Tortilla Francés we had in Melide, or our conditioning in the mountains of the Primitivo, we were very strong on the hills.
While I never set out to race, I must admit that with all the peregrinos now out and about, it did help to fuel me on, though I arrived very tired and aching in Arzúa after a long, grueling 28 kilometer day!
I observed all this racing behavior with amusement, tried not to judge and just kept to our pace. I will, however, claim my somewhat competitive nature! I did feel proud of what we had accomplished on the Camino Primitivo.
Indeed, we had changed our course of direction, in many ways when we joined the Camino Francés. One day, we might do the entire French Way. And then, we might not. The jury is out.
The French Way is not good or bad, just a different experience.
Salutation
May your own day eleven on your Camino Primitivo, part two (Francés) be filled with a better knowledge of the different Caminos, why you are who you are and why you choose one Camino over another! May you stay steady at your own pace and soar over the clouds to get a complete view beyond the horizons! Buen Camino!
The Camino Primitivo Stages
Please Consider Showing Your Support
Many readers contact me, Elle, to thank me for all the time and care that I have spent creating this informative website. If you have been truly blessed by my efforts, have not purchased an eBook, yet wish to contribute, I am very grateful. Thank-you!
Search This Website:
The Pilgrimage Traveler Digital Guides
Our Guides Help You:
~ Know what to expect each day!
~ Locate historic sites along the Way!
~ Know where you are in your journey!
~ Discover a quote from the sages, for your daily reflection on the journey!
Click on a Photo Below to Get Your Copy.
A most popular alternative on the Central Route of the Camino Portugués!
The Portuguese Routes are rapidly gaining in popularity, especially the section from Lisbon! Plan to walk this one soon, before it is no longer a quiet experience!
Our Most Popular Guide!
The Most Historic of the Portuguese Caminos - not to be missed!
The Spiritual Adventure of a Lifetime, Following in the Footsteps of St. Teresa of Ávila!
The Amazing Mountain Route Alternative, the Camino Sanabrés, from Granja de Moreruela on the Vía de la Plata!
The Most Incredible Mountain Scenery on this Camino from Leon to Oviedo!
The Shortest of the Caminos, but Not Easy!
The Very First, Original Camino from Oviedo to Santiago
Entirely Updated and New Version for 2025
The Pilgrimage to the End of the World - A Must Do!
All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an associate of these companies, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you click on these links. We have used and love all of our product recommendations and believe you will too! We sincerely thank-you!
Follow Me on Pinterest:
Follow Me on Instagram:
Find the Pilgrimage Traveler on Facebook:
Like / Share this page on Facebook:
***All Banners, Amazon, Roamless and Booking.com links on this website are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate and a Booking.com associate, the Pilgrimage Traveler website will earn from qualifying purchases when you click on these links, at no cost to you. We sincerely thank-you as this is a pilgrim-supported website***
PS: Our guide books are of our own creation and we appreciate your purchase of those too!!
Shroud Yourself in Mystery, along the Via de Francesco!
Walk in the Footsteps of St. Francis, and Connect Deeply to the Saint and to Nature in the Marvelous Italian Countryside!
Recent Articles
-
Day One on the Camino Portugués, Lisbon to Alverca do Ribatejo
Apr 15, 25 08:19 PM
Our Day One on the Camino Portugués was much more beautiful and enjoyable than we had heard. -
Hiking the West Highland Way
Apr 11, 25 08:51 PM
Hiking the West Highland Way is a representation of all things Scottish, traversing 96 miles from the lowlands of Milngavie to Ft William, in the highlands. -
Way of St Francis eBook Guide (Via di San Francesco)
Apr 11, 25 08:49 PM
Our Way of St Francis eBook Guide, a digital guidebook is full of current information to assist you in finding your Way. In downloadable, digital, PDF format.
Need suggestions on what to pack for your next pilgrimage? Click Here or on the photo below!
Carbon fiber construction (not aluminum) in a trekking pole makes them ultra lightweight. We like the Z-Pole style from Black Diamond so we can hide our poles in our pack from potential thieves before getting to our albergue! There are many to choose from! (See more of our gear recommendations! )
Gregory BackPack - My Favorite Brand
Do not forget your quick-dry microfiber towel!
Booking.com
My absolute favorite book on how to be a pilgrim:
Your Opinion Matters! Comments
Have you had a similar experience, have some advice to give, or have something else you'd like to share? We would love to hear from you! Please leave us a comment in the box below.